Enterprise
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Garry R
Enterprise
Having now had a good look at the Enterprise I have bought it is clear that, as there is substantial rot, the 8mm ply floor of the hull has to be cut out and replaced but not over the entire length of the hull. As I have only worked on clinker boats before I was wondering what the best way was to get a straight neat cut across the ply (ordinary saw/jigsaw and tidy up/plane square after etc?) so that I can make a good joint with the new timber. The other thing is that the floor is overlapped by the ply that forms the hull sides at the chine so effectively the new ply has to be chamfered to fit in. Furthermore the keel will have to be lifted to remove the old ply to allow the new stuff to be set in on top of the hog and the keel then replaced. All this is around the centreboard case region so am I better to bite the bullet and remove the case first and put it back in after the new floor has been fitted. I suppose once the keel is off I will know better........ It's a really simple construction if you were starting from scratch with a box of new bits but I suppose it always is!!
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Ancient Geek
- Posts: 1133
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:50 am
- Location: Sletten,3250, Denmark and Hampshire GU33 7LR UK
Re: Enterprise
Garry,
I would not remove the centreboard case unless I had to, it will hold the longtitudenal curve the Hog and mean no distortion from original when you put the new panel in.
Remove it (Plate case.) if you must after the new panel is in, or if before, refit before fitting the new panel, dinghies "HOG" very easily.
I would not bother to chamfer in on the chine with the quarter panel I'd just plane it down and wack the new bottom on top, glue means which way round does not matter and the only reason it's the way round it is because it was originally planked up Bottom / quarter / topsides!
You have hefty stringers at the chine joints anyway.
I would use quite a substantial backing piece on the inside at the new / old panel joins the 9mm X 3" wide ply will do well.
Not withstanding that, I would do 45 degree scarf at the panel joins (10 mins work at your rate!) it will save any line showing under the paint and it's the proper (Boatbuilding.) way!
You'' need screws every inch on both sides of the joints of the new panel with old at least while the glue is setting you can take at least every other one out after the glue has gone off and just stop the holes along on the screw heads. If you use a two part stopper DAVIDS ISOPON, for instance, the stopper is as strong as screws and lighter anyway.
Don't forget when refitting bilge keel - EXACTLY parallell to keel.
Glue everything beware the plate case and keel may have been fitted with mastic NOT glue get it off before re-fastening and gluing
Use a "long board" to fair the two panels together and some trowelled stopper to fill the inevitable slight unfairness.
Good luck.
I would not remove the centreboard case unless I had to, it will hold the longtitudenal curve the Hog and mean no distortion from original when you put the new panel in.
Remove it (Plate case.) if you must after the new panel is in, or if before, refit before fitting the new panel, dinghies "HOG" very easily.
I would not bother to chamfer in on the chine with the quarter panel I'd just plane it down and wack the new bottom on top, glue means which way round does not matter and the only reason it's the way round it is because it was originally planked up Bottom / quarter / topsides!
You have hefty stringers at the chine joints anyway.
I would use quite a substantial backing piece on the inside at the new / old panel joins the 9mm X 3" wide ply will do well.
Not withstanding that, I would do 45 degree scarf at the panel joins (10 mins work at your rate!) it will save any line showing under the paint and it's the proper (Boatbuilding.) way!
You'' need screws every inch on both sides of the joints of the new panel with old at least while the glue is setting you can take at least every other one out after the glue has gone off and just stop the holes along on the screw heads. If you use a two part stopper DAVIDS ISOPON, for instance, the stopper is as strong as screws and lighter anyway.
Don't forget when refitting bilge keel - EXACTLY parallell to keel.
Glue everything beware the plate case and keel may have been fitted with mastic NOT glue get it off before re-fastening and gluing
Use a "long board" to fair the two panels together and some trowelled stopper to fill the inevitable slight unfairness.
Good luck.
Simples.
Re: Enterprise
Just beat me to it.. Mind you AG has saved me a lot of typing..