scrapers

[Nessa]

Does anyone know if it's possible to get a narrow blade scraper? I need one for the awkward bits on the floor, in between the runners as they taper towards the front.

If not, what is the best way to make such a thing, or cananyone recommend an alternative tool/method?

Also, do scrapers have a limited life span, or is there a good way of sharpening them? My own attempts don't really work.

Should I splash out on a tungsten blade?

[Rupert]

I've used chisels in reverse in the past. Works well sometimes, depending on what is being removed. I sharpen my triangular scrapers with a file. Seems to work OK.

[Michael Brigg]

I Sharpen my "triangular" scraper(s) with a medium/fine file. Flat side or rounded depending on the shape of scraper. For better control, fix the scraper in a vice and use a two handed grip on the file. This is always sharp enough. An oilstone can get you down to razor sharpness, but this I think is unnecessary.

For a hooked scraper, you can easily cut these down to size with a hacksaw.

Perhaps before anyone else says it, at this point I should say "Walnut shells!!

(...And you'd better let poor Aggamemnon know that its not an Axe! )

[roger]

One tip I was given was to use an older scraper. The B&Q modern ones are to hard and I found it hard to get an edge on them and also found the were a bit harsh on the wood. I found a couple of old wooden handled ones at a boot sale. They have been great and like Rupert says sharpen up with a file.

[Nessa]

I am about to get all my Dad's old woodworking tools, so hoprefully there will be some older scrapers in amongst that lot. Chisels too. My Dad was a bit stunned when I asked for them - he doesn't know about the fleet. None of my other siblings have any interes in woodwork

[alan williams]

Hi Nessa
Get a cabinet scraper which looks like a flat piece of metal (does not have a handle), from a really good tool supplier. They are used by cabinet makers are cheap, very thin and hold an edge well. You can buy them in allsorts of shapes to get into difficult places.
Cheers Al Finn 424 etc.

[Michael Brigg]

I am about to get all my Dad's old woodworking tools,...My Dad was a bit stunned when I asked for them - he doesn't know about the fleet.

This could be a British version of "Golden Pond!"

Whatever you do, do not try to rearrange the storage of these tools. They will have evolved the places where they are kept, and however hard you try to tidy them into an orderly box, they will find their ways back into the box/trunk/bag you recieved them in! where you will know where to find them.

Trust me, I have tried with my own inherited tools.

Oh, and dont worry if you already have 3 hacksaws a key saw and an awl, you will still find a use for the broken one in the bottom of the trunk.

[jonathan]

I use a small Scarston scraper and a saw file to shape and hone the blade to give a good burr. Need to sharpen it after about 10-12 scrapes. For awkward spots I use an old dinner knife with the end snapped of and ground square then burred if necessary.

[DavidC]

Cabinet scrapers are great but there is a knack to getting and edge on them. They should produce shavings not dust. You will have to ask or hunt the web for a demo on the black art of getting an edge.

Alternatively the Skarsten is great as long as you keep an edge as has been said and I grind up old hacksaw blades as necessary. Try to get one that fits a mechanical hacksaw. An engineering shop will have old ones. These are bigger.

[Ed]

God.....I have got a box of scrapers of all sizes and shapes, which has been built up over the years.

I have often found or made up a scraper to use for a particular job as and when needed. They all have their particular strengths and weeknesses.

I use an electric wheel grinder with a fine stone to sharpen them, which means that some of them do wear out pretty quickly, but I will make or butcher one to undertake a particular job if needed.

But it does depend on what you are trying to scrape.

If you are trying to do a first scrape with a hot-air gun, you need something with a handle that is easy on your hand. The cabinet scraper (as Al recommends) is brill for later scraping, but is useless for removing lots of paint with an air gun. If you are cleaning the edge of many layers of varnish to repair a patch....you wouldn't want to use a big triangular scraper, when a cabinet scraper or bit of glass will do the job much better.

My faves?

The best scraper I have is a tungsten bladed one made by Stanley. It was expensive and the blades more so, but the edge lasts for ages and it is just the right size for most work for me at about 30-35mm. It rips through anythign and works well with hot-air or nitromors as it is not attacked by either.

I have another couple of scrapers that are about 20mm which also have detachable blades, but they are much softer and wear out very quickly and I don't often see them for sale, although originally came from b&Q. These are brilliant, a nice size for delicate work, but shorter so you need to watch out you don't melt them or your fingers when working with a hot-air gun.

For smaller work, I use a few bits of bent steel, sharpened to an edge. Strangely enough the one I use most is about 10mm and made from duraluminium. Yes....its a bit soft and you have to keep sharpening it, but it works fine for removing nitromorsed stuff, which is when the smaller sizes gets used.

I do have some broken hack-saw blades with one end covered in tape. these are brilliant for getting into lands, gaps etc as they are thin so you can get them in and then pull the serrated edge back to clean out the crap.

I also have a couple of awls, with the ends bent around at an angle, which you can use to get into gaps. The best has square edges, though I have just bust that.

I also have in the box....but tend not to use as much:

Skarsten Scrapers - the old wooden ones, size seems wrong in my hand, they are wood and get attacked by both heat and nitromors and they don't seem to keep their edge. But this is a totally personal thing.

Triangular scrapers - loose edge very quickly (old are def better), you have to regularly use the wheel to keep sharp. They work fine, but I find them (or some) inclined to dig an edge if you are not careful. I mainly use them for the concave side around raised bits.

Bits of glass - great, but not as good as a decent set of cabinet-scrapers

Sharp edge scrapers, without hook - very dangerous to use, but good for initial removal of lots of loose paint or scraping back nitromors.

The other Scandihooly scrapers (big made from orange and expensive) - had it past, don't have at present

An enormous scraper from the 50s, with two handles and removable blades. Incredible, but I can't use it much.

Why so many....

Grown over the years, but I do find that sometimes I can pursade some family or crew to come and help and it is really helpful to have a good selection of scrapers to work with.

I also get fed up with one or another and want a change and I regularly loose one under piles of paint-shavings.

cheers

eib

[Rupert]

I feel like such a part-timer now...

[Ed]

Come on David....

we are nothing if not a de-bunker of black arts!

Whats the gen.

I have just tried to keep mine square on a grinder and stone, not tried for a lip, but if there was one, i scraped with it.

The round edge ones.....not sure....havn't used them much and to be honest...not sure I have ever sharpened them, but most probably should....so fill us in!

The biggest problem I find with cabinet scrapers is that they are pretty tough on your hands if you have got a lot of scraping to do. I tend to use them for mainly pretty delicate work, where I don't want to sand and it is not therefore a problem, but I have sometimes got very saw hands after using them for any length of time.

cheers

eib

Rupe....you a part-timer....never.

it is just that I have a habit of picking on silly damn boats with lots of scraping. They are either over 17ft long or they are clinker. I suspect your selection of boats has been far more sensible - at least in scraping terms.

I know....I know.....walnut shells!

[Ancient Geek]

Sounds like a job for walnut shells !!!!

[chris]

Most scrapers work better with a burr turned back. If you make up a sraper from a piece of hacksaw blade or and old knife on a grindstone that will leave a burr - don't remove the burr. With a cabinet scraper they are honed to a sharp square edge first then the burr is turned over with a hard steel, polished, round edge. I use a centre punch which I have smoothed and polished the last inch, hold it at about 70degrees to the scraper and, pressing hard run it down the edge. Cabinet scrapers are usually used as the last process in smoothing wood, instead of using sandpaper they can leave a perfect finish and won't risk tearing the timber. You need to flex the blade, hold it at about 70degrees away from you press quite hard. It should indeed remove a fine shaving. Will work on difficult grain but can form little ridges if you don't vary position whith each stroke.

I often use old chisles on boats and they have a bit of weight. sharpen as normal but when you hone the bevel don't turn the chisel over to hone the flat side leave it with the burr on and it works much better. then from time to time a few strokes on an oilstone on the bevel only will refresh it well. A scaper sharpened like a knife won't work as well as this.

[chris]

http://www.axminster.co.uk
type in scraper in the search box - over 40 products from £1.59 upto a lovely scraper plane at £208 ( not recommended for removing nitromors!!) but if you have a grinder then old knives and blades are great!