best way to remove two pot varnish?

[Ancient Geek]

Sorry Roger point taken, but isn't it GRAMMAR?

[roger]

correct

[Ruskie]

Having just gone through the painful process of removing the old varnish/epoxy from my enterprise I can offer the following:
A heat gun and scraper is useful for smaller areas, I used an old chisel as a scraper as the handle gave some protection from the heat. I did find that it tended to leave a powdery residue which I put down to it being epoxy coated. Whatever it was it then came off easily with a detail orbital sander with 80 grit paper.
The detail sander was OK but I found the paper clogged quite quickly reducing its effectiveness.
An 80 grit flap wheel in a drill for places where the orbital sander couldn't get in to was useful but you have to be careful as the edge of the wheel digs in easily until it is worn in.
The best thing I found for larger areas was a small Bosch 60mm belt sander again with 80 grit. This removed large amounts of coating and discolouration very quickly when going along the grain and the best thing was that the belt didn't clog up and there was less dust due to a decent de-dusting arrangement.
The only problem with it was that if you weren't careful it tended to dig in and remove more wood than intended. Tired arms and concentration lapses were probably to blame and a slower belt speed helped to control this. Going across grain was also hazardous due to high removal rates.
Good luck.
Paul

[roger]

I am afraid the only way is the long slow process. When I did Shoestring it took weeks with the heat gun and scraper and I didnt dare use any sort of power sander. Please do be careful with discs attached to drills my GP 14 still bears the scars of my brothers enthusiasm with one of those 20 years on and if you intend to revarnish it is very easy to go through the top laminate.

[Rupert]

Anything with an edge that isn't wobbling I find best avoided, hence the random orbit. A mouse sander of some sort is good for the corners.

[chris]

I agree with Roger's comments about machine sanders. They can be damaging, not just leaving ugly marks but going through veneer in an instant.

If clogging is a problem though you can buy a special rubber that decloggs sanding belts and will prolong sanding belt a lot - well worth it. Axminster power tools sell them.

[Garry R]

Once you get the bulk of it off with a heat gun (carefully) there are still areas which are still "shining" I have found these really difficult to get off. A cabinet scraper I guess will do it but I have to confess that I haven't got the knack of sharpening these despite trying ad nauseam. (How I wish my Dad had been a better teacher of woodworking skills especially shapening chisels, planes etc, he was superb and expected you to pick it up by watching rather than explaining and letting you have a go. Anyhow - too late now .....). BUT I have found that for these smaller area a Stanley knife blade used as a hand held scraper a la cabinet scraper without the handle does an excellent job. Slow I admit but at least I havent lost the veneer!!

[Garry R]

I meant to add that there are loads of videos on Youtube about sharpening techniques.

[Ancient Geek]

Ed at least has had an

epiphany

about walnut shells.

Garry sharpening tools is I agree an aquired skill a constant angle (or angles actually is required.) you used to be able to buy a honing guide to attach to the blade to be sharpened to help with keeping the angle constant and a leather strop fastened between a couple of blocks on a plank for the final burnish, and sharpen every time you use them.

Panel scrapers are I admit a bugger to get an edge on, Richard Debenham (sadly no longer with us.) was a wizard, he even used them for sanding (well flatting off.) varnish and paint so much quicker in his hands than W&Dry.

[cweed]

Being in a similar position, but having removed said epoxy, what does the panel recommend recoating with ~ Epoxy or Varnish?
I am favouring varnish as a) I haven't been successful coating with epoxy previously, and b) I can eventually restrip and revarnish varnish finish easier when it needs in the future.
Any thoughts?

[JimC]

Epoxy or Varnish?

75 times out of a hundred varnish. Epoxy only when you need the machanical properties, and even then you have to varnish it afterwards for UV protection...

[Ancient Geek]

Epoxy every time all vintage boats (Indeed all boats.) will benefit from the structural benefit, by all means overcoat with varnish but good epoxy whilst not cheap comes with UV protection one thing though because it is so waterproof it you "ding" it do dry the "ding" and touch up ASAP. otherwise if water gets under the epoxy it will work away under the skin.
It is not cheap but you'll only need to do it once.

[Rupert]

I'm with Jim on this one. Most of the time, epoxy will be at best a worthless addition to the hull, and at worst cause all sorts of problems on down the line. One way to look at it is - can I be sure there is absolutely no soft wood (ie boat is as new) under the epoxy coating? If there is, it will rot away sight unseen. On the other hand, if you simply want to keep a boat that is past hope/cost in time of proper restoration on the water for a few more years, bung on wood hardener on the soft bits and slap on the epoxy. If you are lucky, you'll get 5 years of use before your foot goes through the bottom or the rudder falls off. This is my approach to the Puffin, as it was that or start again with new bottom, sides, bow and stern, new frames - new boat, infact. Or throw away.

[roger]

otherwise if water gets under the epoxy it will work away under the skin.

That is the reason I would not recomend epoxy on an old boat.

[Ed]

I have been on this forum too long....

for epoxy vs varnish discussions....it may be worthwhile searching the archives. We have done it to death in the past

eib