Fitting self bailers

[Garry R]

I have never actually had to fit self bailers (Gannet doesn't have any why cut a hole in the hull after 59 years!) and other boats they were already there. But the Enterprise I will have to refit them as the panels they were in have been replaced. What is the best technique to get them to fit well and not leak ie what sealant should I use, do you have to recess the ply a little on the inboard side to make them flush to the hull - they are the internal mount style - Elvstrom Super max. Any help gratefully received. Enterprise on the home straight now that the frost and snow has largely gone. I am always encouraged when paint is applied - even if it is the undercoat! Just re-reading the post I have realised that my three boats (Secret Water, Gannet and Chinook) and helm and crew years add up to 292 years!!!! The boats have lasted better than the helm and crew I hasten to add.

[Rupert]

I've tended to fit them by either using the template on the box (rare, as it involves having them from new!), drawing round the inside of the rubber seal or just measuring and hoping! Then 4 holes drilled in the corners and then cut out using a keyhole saw. Probebly worth doing this and drilling the holes before you do much more painting.

I've bonded them in with whatever gunk in a tube happens to be at hand - I'm sure there are proper ones for the job, but bath sealant seems to work. Then 8 small, horrible to do up covered in sealant bolts...

If your hull is thicker than the depth of the bailer, you may well have to cut round it and remove a veneer layer to get it flush.

All in all, a pretty easy job compared to replacing the panels in the first place.

[Ancient Geek]

Garry when I used to do it I adopted an Artful Bodger solution having cut the hole we put a couple of temporary battens across the hole slavered the whole thing round the edges and where the bailer would rest with araldite, plastic padding or isopon and pushed the bailer down with the washer/gasket in place until it was on the battens thus it was flush and square with the bottom. Let it get semi dry and removed -scraped- any surplus and when fully dry drilled the holes and fitted the bolts, of course the boat needs to be right way up to do this, but it was simple, quick and I was paranoic about a smooth hull, - I still am. The outer hull side can be filled at the same time as you are filling the countersunk bolts, and then "sandpapered smooth". ONe other thing in your confusion do NOT do as a boatbuilder of my acquaintance did after a good lunch fit the things back to front! Client not happy!
Now the serach is on for a vintage boat sail no 292!!!!!

[jpa_wfsc]

does that allow for the compression of the rubber seal when you re-fit the bailer after the araldite has set?

[Rupert]

I'd also be a little wary of them being too rigid, as the filler could crack. I tend to save the car body filler till after it is bedded, to ensure a smooth hull.
I do remember fitting the little Holt bailers with araldite to avoid having to drill more holes in the hull. Bad, bad idea...luckily they were internally mounted, so I could jam them back in before sailing in from out on the Irish sea and bolting them...

[Nigel]

One option is to use clingfilm as a mask on the bailer. You still get the molded fit but without the sticky so maybe the best of both worlds.

[Ancient Geek]

In my case with both the mk two bailers the effect was to solidify the gasket so goodness knows why 40 odd years ago we left it in!