Enterprise dimension

[Ruskie]

I am about to embark on the replacement of the hull floor panels and want to check that the hog curve has not moved whilst the old panels have been removed. Please could somebody give me a vertical dimension from the top of the hog immediately at the aft edge of the centreboard case to the underside of a straight edge laid across the side decks.
Also I have had to remove the hardwood rubbing strake along both sides and I notice that it is not a semicircular profile but more of an elliptical or egg shape. does anyone have any idea how I can achieve this profile?
thanks for any help.

[Garry R]

I did a similar job recently but wasn't doing the entire panel - it was a partial replacement and didn't worry about the curve of the hog. The forward and aft thwarts were left in place which keeps the centreboard case centred but I removed one side at a time so the hog/centreboard case was never left dangling. I replaced one side and then did the other side. I have added the pictures to demonstrate. As regards the rubbing strakes I don't think that the class rules specify a profile - just a maximum thickness. You can download the rules by searching for Enterprise Class rules on Google. So basically I don't think you need to get the profile perfect - just make sure it is the same all the way along.

[DavidC]

Hi, there is no guarantee that any measurement someone could give you would match the way you boat was built. It might work or it might be misleading, leading you to alter your boat and then make it out of class.

The only safe way is to get a copy of the class rules and set the base line up and check the measurements as necessary. http://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/ ... 854%5D.pdf will get you a set of class rules but you will also need the dimensions off the measurement form for which I suggest you have a word with the class secretary Bob Southworth who will help. His number is on the class site http://www.sailenterprise.org.uk/

Cheers
D

[Mark R]

I've just replaced the gunwales in my Enterprise. The relevant rule is as follows:

"Gunwale Rubbing Bead

The rubbing bead or deck overhang shall not be more than 32mm wide and shall be of uniform width +/- 3mm throughout (local damage excepted), but may be faired in to a maximum distance of 76mm from bow and stern."

My boat came with a semicircular section gunwale, but these were destroyed in being removed, so I needed to replace with new. The Enterprise plans show two sections, one semicircular, and one that is built up from two lengths of wood - both are optional and it seems you can design your own profile if it doesn't overhang by more than 32 mm. Looking at the boats on ebay etc, there is a wide variance in profile.

I found that I couldn't get wood thicker than 3/4" round the edge of the boat - the variance in angle of the topsides makes it a complex curve. So I built up the gunwhales up with a 1/4" x 1" strip of sycamore, and then a 3/4" x`1" length of utile (not to everyones taste I know, but I like the contrast). The most difficult part of the process is working out how to clamp along the foredeck, I wanted to avoid screws and plugs. In terms of shaping the gunwales, I used a cabinet scraper to flush to deck, a plane to shape to rough dimensions, and then a random orbital sander to finish. The boat is upside down being painted, but I'll post a photo we she is back on her trolley.

In terms of the measure behind the centreboard case, I'd also advise on the use of the measurement form - my boat was last measured in 1972, and I know there is a slight warp along the boat that make a measures from her at best approximate! For what it is worth, on my boat the measure is 476mm. I'd almost prefer not to know other measures are, they will have me worrying about whether I am within class!

[Garry R]

As my Enterprise was built in 1959 and number 1713 I am hoping that it will just slip under the highly critical CVRDA measurers' radar!! It's never going to be a serious contender for anything - I just replaced everything to the best of my ability with the intention of making her sailable without my foot going through the hull - not to win championships.

[Rupert]

I'll be there with my tape measure, Garry - just tell me what it is supposed to read!

[Ed]

Realise this is going a bit off topic....but at least it ain't in latin!

There has been a thread recently on the IC forum about laying on foredecks.

As we know this is always a challenge. To get a good fit all the way around.....with no screws, pins or staples. I know Rupert and I have both used sandbags, which works ok, but the sand is a pain. If you have a clear and strong roof, you can use wood struts spanned from ceiling to deck and that also works well, but can use up a lot of wood, which is a pain unless you have it hanging around.

Steve Clarke proposed a method I have not come across before but will certainly try next time:

I am sure he won't mind if I quote him here:

<quote from Steve Clarke on IC Forum>

I cut plywood about 25mm big all the way around.
I drill holes in the part that hangs over.
I have a pile of hooks made of bent nails that I stick in the holes.
I pull the deck down with rubber bands made out of old inner tubes.
It helps to pin it at the front and back of the centerline, a brad does this nicely.
It helps if you have something to hook them on so you probably want to have the boat set up on something like or a triangle of timber works better.
This way there are no staple holes to fill and you can't end up with a bubble in the glue line because the ply didn't compound the way you expected it to.
After everything dries you can trim it with a router with a "laminate trimming" bit. To rebuild the rub rail, cut the deck back the width of the rub rail with an offset bit and laminate in a new piece of spruce or whatever was there. Do a nice job and no one will ever know.
All ancient history from before digital cameras, so no images of how.
SHC

cheers eib

[Mark R]

To glue down the foredeck without staples, I clamped 1/2" and 3/4" battens across the foredeck aligned to the framework underneath, I screwed temporary clamping pieces to the topsides - the screw holes have subsequently been filled and hidden under the gunwales. The only difficulty was where the battens didn't quite have enough pressure to close the gaps to beams, but that was solved with the use of shims.

I was I'd taken photos of all this now, maybe next time (if Mrs R allows another!).

[Ancient Geek]

Bob Hoare used house bricks I have used logs, sash weights indeed anything of weight and able to be wrapped in something to prevent it marking the virgin timber, the only thing to be careful of is the boat ir propped or in a female mould to stop it twisting and drying in winding!

[Nigel]

I haven't tried it with a deck but I have used the dreaded ratchet straps to clamp/cramp odd shapes pretty effectively. Maybe add strongback formers cut to the right profile if the straps do not do it on their own.

[Ed]

yeah done all of those too....and they all work....

but still thought Steve Clarkes' method was very simple and elegant.

cheers

eib