Recently added another boat to the collection (though not a classic...yet?), This seems the best place for advice though.
1. cleaning/renovating ball blocks after several years of use- what is the best way to clean these, just water or some chemical/solvent. Then what is the best lubricant to use?
2. Some areas of the wooden deck have small areas of varnish that are loose. I want to seal the area so i can go sailing first. In the past have rubbed areas back and re-varnished but this has left patchy appearance as the rubbed down area is the original non-uv degarded colour. Intend to take all varnish off when i have the time so i can get a good even finish. Just looking the best temp fix which will not be a pain to remove when i do a proper job.
Revovating ball blocks & temp waterproof covering
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merlinchris
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:42 pm
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Ancient Geek
- Posts: 1133
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:50 am
- Location: Sletten,3250, Denmark and Hampshire GU33 7LR UK
Re: Revovating ball blocks & temp waterproof covering
When Ian Proctor Metal Masts introduced the first use of ball bearings in small boats (1962/3.) in the shape of their recirculating ball race centre main sheet track the advice was wash frequently in fresh water and lubricate with Fairy Liquid or washing up liquid of choice, it works a treat we use it everywhere on the boat it repells grease but clings and lubricates. Much better than WD40 and the other things also if you wash it with fresh water it cleans too!
Simples.
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Michael Brigg
- Posts: 1663
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:11 pm
- Location: Gosport, UK
Re: Revovating ball blocks & temp waterproof covering
Hi Chris,
The question of how to make your knackered decks look good without having to strip back to bare wood first is one that has exercised yachtsmen since foredecks were invented.
You can't.
However you do need to protect them if you are determined to enjoy the boat until you have time or inclination to repair/renovate, and the only way to do this is with a new layer of paint/varnish.
The danger I have found in this approach is that you become desensitised to the sight of the poor finish and end up accepting it as "normal," and important maintenance ends up being left undone. Before you know it you need to replace the deck completely.
So, if you must put a temporary finish on that will be easily removed when it comes to the pukka job, I would throw on a thin coat of unthinned cheap natural varnish. It comes off easily with any stripper or heat gun, and for short term it keeps the water out. Dont bother with any preparation, as you'll just remove a thickness surface veneer, and in older boats you can only strip this so many times before you go right through to the next layer, necessitating replacement.
The scabbier your temporary finish looks the more embarrassing comments it will draw, and the more incentive there is to do it properly!
For jammed up bearing blocks it depends on the material. Tufnol benefits from alot of water. Solvents tend to soak in and spoil the finish. A power hose at "low presure" will blow out most of the crud. Then again I dont know of any tufnol bearing blocks.
Metal and plastic will be perfectly happy to start of in a bath of petrol or parafin, If you want a bit of abrasion to help clear the crevices, throw in a teaspoon of salt (for plastic ) or sugar (For aluminium/steel) which wont disolve in the solvent. then work in a mass of Swarfega. After working all this in rinse off with hot water/detergent or a low pressure setting on the power hose. Silicone lubricant is a final lubricant, although in practice these blocks are designed to use plain water as the lubricant, especially once they are in regular use.
The question of how to make your knackered decks look good without having to strip back to bare wood first is one that has exercised yachtsmen since foredecks were invented.
You can't.
However you do need to protect them if you are determined to enjoy the boat until you have time or inclination to repair/renovate, and the only way to do this is with a new layer of paint/varnish.
The danger I have found in this approach is that you become desensitised to the sight of the poor finish and end up accepting it as "normal," and important maintenance ends up being left undone. Before you know it you need to replace the deck completely.
So, if you must put a temporary finish on that will be easily removed when it comes to the pukka job, I would throw on a thin coat of unthinned cheap natural varnish. It comes off easily with any stripper or heat gun, and for short term it keeps the water out. Dont bother with any preparation, as you'll just remove a thickness surface veneer, and in older boats you can only strip this so many times before you go right through to the next layer, necessitating replacement.
The scabbier your temporary finish looks the more embarrassing comments it will draw, and the more incentive there is to do it properly!
For jammed up bearing blocks it depends on the material. Tufnol benefits from alot of water. Solvents tend to soak in and spoil the finish. A power hose at "low presure" will blow out most of the crud. Then again I dont know of any tufnol bearing blocks.
Metal and plastic will be perfectly happy to start of in a bath of petrol or parafin, If you want a bit of abrasion to help clear the crevices, throw in a teaspoon of salt (for plastic ) or sugar (For aluminium/steel) which wont disolve in the solvent. then work in a mass of Swarfega. After working all this in rinse off with hot water/detergent or a low pressure setting on the power hose. Silicone lubricant is a final lubricant, although in practice these blocks are designed to use plain water as the lubricant, especially once they are in regular use.
Michael Brigg