International Canoe K102 "Torment"

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Michael Brigg
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Michael Brigg »

davidh wrote:Hi Michael,

I never thought that I'd say this but I'm suffering a bad attack of canoe envy.

Given that one of your colleagues has cast doubts on the advisability of trapezing in future (even when I do start moving again) - which could rule out the contender, would a canoe fill the gap (unless another Hit comes along....). If, as I intend and is my goal to aim for, that I'm back afloat in 2015, can I gave a go?

Cheers

D
Dougall, I am sorry to hear you have been laid low. After I watched the Vid of you trashing the Devoti D1 on Lake Garda I thought you had finally found your entry into Armchair sailing. :lol: Image

When Torment is done its Blue Moon next and you made a promise!...Start starching your bib and scrambling your egg if I was you!
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by jpa_wfsc »

Michael Brigg wrote:
ent228 wrote:Why are the traveller control lines crossed over?
I have no idea. I wonder if the previous owner just put it away that way, or perhaps would make an adjustment during the tack.

Perhaps it is something to do with stern sheeted booms. The previous owner is no longer with us, so it will be a mystery for now...
It makes some sense to me.. as when on the plank, sheeting a stern arrangement, there would be a strong tendency to pull the traveler up to windward because of the sheeting angle..., and that would not be great. so it has been setup to be able to pull it back out to leward? The clue would be how the jammers were set up - so you could pull the near one from seating out?
j./

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neil
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by neil »

To be honest I doubt if you will need to worry about the mainsheet traveller for at least the first year, as you'll be removing the cowhorns from your forehead - there's a reason why they disappeared! I made a pair of extensions on a yoke for Rannoch after hearing stories about cowhorns and piercings.

Torment looks excellent, just be careful with the prolube.
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by roger »

Ask David H about the prolube, he wont have forgotten because we wont let him.

I found an old candle is excellent for "greasing" the seat.
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by JimC »

roger wrote:Ask David H about the prolube, he wont have forgotten because we wont let him.

I found an old candle is excellent for "greasing" the seat.
At the moment I have the opposite problem where carbon fibre on cedar bearing surfaces has achieved an amazing polish and the damn thing won't stay where I put it while tacking. I can't quite bring myself to increase friction, but really need to...
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Michael Brigg »

Well its back to reality and the visits to the back garage have continued with the same sense of furtive guilt as would accompany any mid life crisis.

The hull is now almost bare, and I have discovered a few things to say about the stripping process.

Most important is the quality of tool.

After that is the quality of the blade. I started with good file, but after some time I became aware thar even with a file to sharpen my blade, there was evidence of tiny serations marking the freshly shaved hull surface.

Emptying out Dads old tool chest I came across a mysterious slab of dark stone from the past which in my youth I remembered he would use for re-sharpening his drill bits.

It is of course an Oil stone, and used to freshen the blade of a scraper it is quite miraculous functioning almost like a pair of Fat head carving skis in a deep powder filled Back bowl
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The varnish peels away from the blade with the ease of Lurpak speadable, giving long wide rashers of almost edible looking varnish. I am almost salivating with the memory.
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It does help to have some real Dichloromethane stripper, (not quite the old "runny" nitromors stuff, this is the stuff that came in a gel) but it does just soften things up nicely even if it does need 2-3 applications.

The art is to apply iyt then go away and stoke the blade )well 2 or 3 blades) about 50 times apiece across the oil stone. They come away literally razor sharp, then each blade has about 10 - 20 good sweeps before it is blunt.
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Michael Brigg
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Michael Brigg »

And at last I have reached a landmark. From this summit I can see where I have come from and where I am going.
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I can already smell the thinners!

A few jobs still to do...

I have to remove the rubber flanges around the centreplate slot, and it remains to be seen if these are easily replaceable. Ideas please?

There is some curious white grain that is infiltrated into the spele grain finish. It has always been there and looks like a blemish in the original veneer. Almost like the root of some sort of ivy or another arboreal parasite that has got into the stock sed for the original veneer.

I have several pictures on my Photobucket file here...

http://s225.photobucket.com/user/michae ... sort=3&o=2

Has anybody else seen this sort of thing in Sapele veneers, and any ideas if I should try to do anything with it. Tea stains or whatever?
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by JimC »

Never seen anything remotely like that...

I think sometimes its best just to accept that wrinkles and white hair come with age rather than try and do something about it.
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Ed
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Ed »

Really can't tell what that 'white' is....

just looks like white paint or white filler, but would need to see it closer to take any sort of guess.

As for the rubber gasket-seal. You need to take the old one off, which shouldn't be too hard and then replace with whatever seems best. Wouldn't be hard to use rubber. just pin one piece in place and then run a stanley blade down the middle to cut it. I am sure a bit of inner tube would work. Personally never cared that much for rubber gaskets. What about using a sailcloth one. still looks OK and much easier to make.

eib
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Michael Brigg
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Michael Brigg »

I am advised that the white "grain" is likely to be filler used in the lay up of the ply, which has bleached during stripping. This certainly seems feasible as the texture is not what I would expect for a natural material. So I shall see if I can stain it (carefully) to make it more discreet. (Filler in sapele ply by all accounts being a requirement because of the nature of the ply and grin lay up.)

The next problem is with the centre plate...
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1.) there is a long, 1/2 - 3/4 inch break on the back edge. I must find a matching piece of Oak (with the same dramatic grain) and then use an appropriate Oar mblade mending technique to effect a repair. I recall the skilled boatmen at school could repair a blade overnight, but I expect to take rather longer.
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2.) Oh dear. Delamination!! Is this likely to be representative of other parts of the boat? :cry: It is an area that has a lot of wear, so I am hopeful that replacement and regluing will be the answer.
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ent228
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by ent228 »

Never seen a centre board like this one......where is the bolt hole?
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by JimC »

ent228 wrote:Never seen a centre board like this one......where is the bolt hole?
Bolt holes are a post war invention. Pre war ones used to have a long slot that the pin engaged with.
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Pat »

We spent last Sunday doing a slot gasket on an Albacore. We bought sailcloth gasket strip by the metre ready folded and stitched from P&B. No cutting through but a 5mm overlap in the middle. It needs to be well stretched as it goes on but there's an article by Mike Macnamara on the Wayfarer website that is useful. Just google slot gasket to find it.
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Michael Brigg
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Michael Brigg »

ent228 wrote:Never seen a centre board like this one......where is the bolt hole?
The bolt hole is infact at the top "corner" of the plate. The Centreplate in fact is placed permanently into position by means of an "open-ble" bolt hole, as illustrated. This "bolt hole Gate" is held In place by two hefty screws.

(It took me a while to work out how to remove the plate. With the boat upside down and the plate in the "up" position, the scews become accessible to be simply unscrewed with good sized Screwdriver head.
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Michael Brigg
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Re: International Canoe K102 "Torment"

Post by Michael Brigg »

The problems are coming out of the woodwork...This time it is the sliding seat,..

Here is the original...
Image0136a.jpg
The varnish is straightforward enough, though somewhat fiddly to strip off, but once again a really sharp triangular scraper (That Oil stone sharpner is worth every penny) and some under the counter Methyl Chloride base stripper from a car body part shop has really helped. I am now unsure what is best on the bits that rub. I have decided to risk it with natural varnish and hope that if I let it season for long enough it will harden up enough to take the friction of the bearing surfaces. Where it wears away, I think the bare wood, if treated well, will be just right for the friction. Think Punt poles, the original wooden ones, unvarnished and splintered when dry, but a joy when wet.

The foot wells are lined (more fore the trim I think than for need) with matching blue plastic floor grip. This has been stuck down with a latex rubber compound, possibly Evostick.

It has been curling up at the edges...
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...and I am quite certain that water will accumulate underneath the material and rot away from within
Michael Brigg
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