Mouldy old screws in Jollyboat deck replacement

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Ed
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Re: Mouldy old screws in Jollyboat deck replacement

Post by Ed » Sat May 22, 2010 8:41 am

snapper rope gripper = jib-sheet cleat
aluminium bit = jib-sheet track
Metal bit that the mast support wires attach to = 'bottom of shroud/stays, stay-connector' below the deck it would be called the 'chain-plate'.
Raised mahogany bit = jib-sheet track cheek?

No secrets with getting the 'cheek' off, you can only try and worry it off without breaking. Chances will be high that it will break. Nothing will soften the glue.....but gentle heat may help it come apart. applied with a hot-air gun. but to be honest you will most probably have to break it off and replace.

Chainplates need checking over, but normally they are in good condition and can just be left alone. I would just put the screws/bolts back in, do it tight and then leave alone.

Photo of inside tank is interesting.....and looks just fine. It is interesting because the runs down the side look 'brown' and look like glue. If it is glue...and brown....then this might explain why the boat is being harder to take apart than normal....but is good news really. Normally Fairey Marine used a 'white' aerolite type glue, but sometimes they ran out and had to use more expensive Resorcinol type glue. this was much more expensive but stronger and does not break down after 40 years like aerolite does. So you would have a much stronger boat, but possibly harder to take apart. Can't confirm this, but it may be.

To remove the sprayguard......are you removing the decks? if so, then take the decks off with the spray-guard in place and remove afterwards. Otherwise you will just have to pry it off with great care to protect the edges.....but personally I would do this 'after' taking the decks off.

complex shaped rub rail - do you mean the gunwhale rubbing strip? it just sits within the deck and bottom bit and screwed in place with screws through the deck. As I said before, the correct way to do this is to remove it all together, but I wouldn't do this, I would just cut off the outside strip....or route out the top of it which would be easier still.

Making up good templates does take a while to get right.....but it is good practice for when you need to do it for real on the boat.

Deck does have a peppery smell.....but not sure what it comes from, the wood or the glue. I think it is safe, at least I am still alive!

Look forwards to seeing the blogsite....pretty easy with blogger or wordpress.com

cheers

eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA


Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it

Mungo
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Location: Canada

Re: Mouldy old screws in Jollyboat deck replacement

Post by Mungo » Sat May 22, 2010 1:54 pm

Thanks for the education. I am sure I make people cringe taking a boat apart when I can't even name the bits.

The glue is brown/black and where the wood is good it is remarkably tough. In other places it has degraded where the deck has weathered into pieces.

I do not want to take the gunwhale rubbing strip off, but the lower deck (?) is not in good shape and in many places the nuts that anchor various deck pieces have pulled through that wood. My concern is that if I take the bottom deck pieces off the rubbing strip will be misaligned. When you described cutting the rubbing strip and reattaching it, was it cut vertically along the rabbet? It's complex construction... very light but I would have expected some more support.

I will try prying the cheeks off. Somehow one of those bits I don't want to break... they are nicely made, nice wood, but I need to get to the screws underneath.

thanks again

Mungo

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Ed
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Re: Mouldy old screws in Jollyboat deck replacement

Post by Ed » Sat May 22, 2010 3:55 pm

yes, advise cut vertically in line with rabit, cutting back to allow deck to be put on and new rubbing strip cap replaced afterwards.

Best way is to not cut off entirely.....but just use a router to cut the top section off to about 1/2 of way down of rubbing stip.

Hopefully, you would not need to remove 'all' of the lower gunwhale ply....just bits. in which case make these to fit. They are out of site, so don't need to be perfect and could usefully do with an epoxy fillet for strength anyway.

Then you can concentrate on the inner edge of deck and not worry about the outer edge, which you can just plain and fit the top section to the rubbing strip.

You won't be able to skimp on the wood for this.....nor for the cheeks. They are just so visible that you will have to go with the best manogamy you can find.

Sounds like you have a boat built with resorcynol, which can only be a good thing, especially if it has been used in the hull as well.

Keep it up.....looks like it is going well!

cheers

eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA


Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it

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