roger wrote:mending the boat as his on the ground hobby. He cant sail though I have offered to teach him.
As has been discussed on this forum before however, many of the best sailors and boat designs came through or were developed via the Aircraft (or even aerospace) industry.
Uffa included.
So Mungo has an exemplary pedigree.
...And may well find some sailing activities somewhat familiar... (Edited. Pic of "spinnaker flying")
Sorry.....don't want to open the copyright saga again...
but the license from Stockprophoto clearly says for 'personal and single use of the image on one computer' This would not include putting it on a public forum, which is legally 'publishing'.
Making money out of photography is hard work these days....and just one of the ways that photographers use, is to advertise their images as 'free' under a certain license (personal and private use) and then wait for them to be published and then send in a big invoice.
I know you all think we are over the top about this, but I have seen this happen and the CVRDA simply does not have the money to defend this kind of action.
So, the rule remains: Please do not use images from any working commercial source, without clear permission for doing so. In other words, stick to your own images, images released under Creative Commons licenses and non-commercial images from unknown owners over 25 years (these are not legal, but low risk!).
eib-admin
Fair comment Ed. I'll be more carefull in future. As you say, stick to my own personal photos. MJB.
And talking of flying and Jollyboats Mungo, I am sure you will find Charles Currey's obituary makes an interesting read especially the bit about his incorporation into Fairey, and the World speed record acheived in a Jolly boat.
It was an insurance job (paid for directly by South West Water!)
So I got Laurie Smart to do it for me....and as he needed to remove the decks to fix the hole....I got most of the cost of those being done as well.
He fixed it an a very interesting way....where rather than cutting the veneer in, he sanded the edges into a smooth edged dip, then put the veneer over the edges, presumably under vacuum and then sanded it all back smooth again. This does have the advantage of scarfing the joints, and I am sure is quick, but not so pretty in my books, although it did not matter as it was a painted hull anyway.
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
One of our header pictures (keep pressing refresh on the home page to find it) shows a close up of Bob's Mercury repair done by Pete Vincent when he was T boned by a Laser at Brightlingsea. I'll try to find the original later and add.
But I don't think you would of done it this way if it was not painted.
no line visible through the paint at all
I will try and find an image of it.
had a quick look and can't find it.
I will try and look later
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Laurie Smarts repair interests me. One of my plan for Garry's veneers was to try and cut out the outer ply and bevel the horizontal upper and lower margins, put the veneer in over size at those edges but matching up along the vertical (well skewed vertical along the veneer lines). Then sand it down flat hoping there would be very little glue line. My hole is so small a vacuum patch wouldn't be hard (but perhaps hard to keep clean in terms of glue leaking out from under the veneer).
In one of Robin Stevenson's books -recently trailed on here- there is a very good description of an overnight repair to an Fairy Hot Moulded Int 14, that went on to last the life of the boat and maybe is still good if the boat exists. It is basically the solution adopted by Garry with his Firefly.
You could loose one cross grain joint totally by continuing the top layer of the new veneer up to the underside of the gunwale. It will need you to carefully reduce the old stuff away upto that point with something like a bullnose plane but it will then show no joint at all.
Another technique for gluing is a faster epoxy and using an old domestic iron to heat, press and cure the glueall at the same time. It can be good if you have a fairly tight curvature to deal with as you can work your way along a bit at a time and control the shape of the curve. But do heat the veneer before you even start to work and fit it to pre-shrink it otherwise you will be disappointed that all your work in cutting and prepareing the new piece acurately is spolit because the veneer has now shrunk when you actually glue it on. Use a piece of brown paper between the iron and the veneer to prevent scorching and any chance of a bit of glue squeezing onto the iron and sticking it instantly to the piece.
Veneer glue film is available. I've used this for some veneering jobs but never on a boat. However it is basically plastic so I don't see why it should not be waterproof. I mentioning it but at this stage not recomending it. Has anyone else tried ironing veneer on a boat?
Things might have changed but I think phenol-formaldehyde and urea-formaldehyde resin is mostly used and applied with an automatic spreader. You can't undo the layers of ply with heat. The film I am thinking of comes in a roll with a backing paper you peel off. It is completely dry and safe to handle so you cut it with scissors to shape, lay it on top of the ground and the veneer on top. Using a domestic iron on medium heat it simply melts. as soon as it is cool it is totally glued (ie no more curing) A great advantage is it can be remelted to correct any faults in alignment etc. More like the old animal glue, but less messy, easy to get a perfectly even layer of glue etc. It is not water soluble but I don't know if it claims to suitable for boat hulls I have used this product from a veneer firm in Bristol http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/prod ... ls_175.htm
A useful technique for holding the surface veneers of a cold moulded boat down is to use a banding or strapping machine used for strapping carboard boxes.
I just did a repair on an elderly cold moulded coastal four rowing boat that had an old patch delaminating.
A piece of ply was fixed across the gunwales with blocks screwed to it to stop the sides crushing in, the new veneers were fitted & once glued held with a couple of tiny screws, the plastic bands were then strapped on at 2" centres, result was perfect pull down of the veneers.
Be warned the pressure these strapping tools can apply is considerable!
I haven't made much progress, a couple hours a day. I'm scraping paint, scraping paint, scraping paint. It seems endless and underneath is the varnish. It will take at least another week, heat gun works on paint, haven't found it does much on varnish but I am worried about too much heat. That said using a chemical stripper I have found wood. Little problems every where, mostly gouges that tear into the outer veneer (looks like the boat was lifted with a forklift), an old delaminating repair and a very small spot of rot near the stern that penetrates the outer ply only.
having scraped and stripped and reached wood I have found artefacts.... for lack of a better word. Not sure some of these are a bad sign but? The wood is darkened in patches with pale centres. Quite hard to get a picture of. I wiped the wood down with water to show the colour. I haven't sanded with enthusiasm, just some 150 paper lightly. The light patches maybe where there is still residual varnish and the wood doesn't wet well. Is the dark just going to be like that? should I sand a bit more?
The other thing is that it has freckles. Is this little bits of rot? Quite a lot of them in patches. They look like pinpricks the dark colour penetrates the wood. Can I bleach them?
the light patches 'may' be where the varnish has not been so well removed. Try carefully to see if they will come off with a little gentle sanding.
the darker patches 'may' be simply dirt. I would advise just giving a really good scrub with stiff brush and detergent based floor-cleaner or other kitchen cleaner. The type you put in the water, that does not bubble too much.
The black flecks are common. They are not a sign of rot, although it may of been from getting wet at some stage. they may of even been there from the beginning. Any ways.....personally I would just learn to love em. The are all part of the patina of a Fairey hull. They seem to me to appear most commonly in places of higher stress or bend. Maybe they had to use some kind of tool to push them into place.
There is much discussion of the use of bleaches on this forum. Personally, I really wouldn't bother. Most bleaches attach light areas before the dark ones, so if you bleach the whole boat, you will lighten the normal wood more than the stains anyway. If you tried to do it stain by stain....you might just go mad.
Learn to love it as it is......and it looks just beautiful. Personally I would still avoid making a patch to replace that damage. Its a 50 year old boat and these battle-scars are only to be expected.
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Oxalic acid is the remedy for this kind of darkening. It's not rot, its Oxidation of the wood surface where there has previously been prolonged contact with air or damp. Oxalic acid will lighten it, to blend better when you varnish but it will always show a bit. When you've sanded off ALL the residual varnish you could try a firm scrub with a brush wich may remove the more superficial stuff.
A very sharp scraper may also take a very thin shaving of the oxidised layer to give a bright new wood look.
