Some pics of GP14 S/n 47 Caltha restoration

[kfz]

Felt like a major milestone yesterday as the refurbed CB case went in. To say Im thrilled is an understatement.





And more than happy with my first attempt at patching a hole.





Kev

[SoggyBadger]

Looks good

[roger]

Yep looking good.

[kfz]

How does the saying go, make Hay while the sun shines. More progress.....



Transom Out! Cant believe finally done it. You wouldn't believe how long I've waited for this moment, that dreadful hacked up rotten piece of wood was by far the worst bit of the boat and now its out. Actually came out fairly easy, though Ive little doubt it wouldn't of 12 months ago. The fact that shes dried out a lot means it shrunk and no longer gripping them screws hard as it was. I took many of the screws out a long time ago but some where seized in so tight I had resigned myself to the fact that the transom would have to be routed out. When I came to try the same screws today, they couldn't wait to get out!

The only damage done and that to the transom which I don't care about, was that there where 2 screws up from the lower floor stringer into the tranny that where under (or above if you prefer) the floor, so wasn't aware of them. The transom was so rotten then it just disintegrated with no damager to the stringers. try the same screws today, they couldn't wait to get out!



More than thrilled I have the Transom out intact and with very little/no damage to the boat or itself, It should be a reasonably straight forward task now to copy the transom in a nice piece of mahogany. Going to make all the difference to the boat!!


Here's how I got every single screws and nails out :-

As already mentioned the copper nails holding the deck to the transom where easily cut with a carving knife and few taps of a hammer. Very easy.

The small screws holding the floor to the transom I picked out and unscrewed with a very sharp screwdriver

1.Big screws in the rear of the transom facing for'ard into the central vertical member (the I managed to loosed off with the impact driver or drill a few of the heads off.

2.The big screws between the side members and transom where the most challenging and after clearing out 60 years of muck and varnish the trusty impact driver freed them off.

3.The last screw in the rubbing strip is in the transom, so dont forget this one.

The only damage done and that to the transom which I don't care about, was that there where 2 screws up from the lower floor stringer into the tranny that where under (or above if you prefer) the floor, so wasn't aware of them. The transom was so rotten then it just disintegrated with no damager to the stringers.

Next - The Port topside ply is rotten over the aft most 3" or so, so will have to cut that back and replace. the central member was no fastened at the top so its worked quite loose at the bottom. I suspect there is a screw above the keel so I may need to just fasten it in while in place.

[Mungo]

maybe this is naive. The transom is not glued in ? I looked at removing the jollyboat transom but after removing about 6 screws down from the gunwales the hull sure wasn't letting go. I put it back together because I assumed well glued and I didn't want to destroy the hull veneers.

[roger]

Kev seeing her in this condition is making me think I should try and have a go at my gp. It will be a long project but first I need to rebuild the shed.
a project that is long over due and will hopefully get done this year.

The transom probably was glued but I guess the glue was something like cascamite which goes brittle and falls apart. That is what happened with my Hornet.

Kev will youhave her ready for the Holt centennial celebrations next year?

[kfz]

Roger,

Yes really hoping so, working hard before the weather really turns. The transom can be done over the winter in the workshop.

Im lucky in that LSC has a members workshop too, so will try and get her in there for the worst of it.

Kev

[kfz]

The transom probably was glued but I guess the glue was something like cascamite which goes brittle and falls apart. That is what happened with my Hornet.

Yep it looks like Cascamite which has failed throughout. Its a sure sign im looking at unrestored portions of the boat as all the new bits have good glue.

Kev

[kfz]

Heres a pic from a few weeks back before the case went in.

[STEVERESERVE]

Hi,

hope you have more success getting in to the LSC workshop than I did with the 11+, I waited over a year for my turn to come up and was then denied access because it's not insured (who do they think would insure a boat that need rebuilding? insurance is for sailing not workshopping anyway!)

Sadly it's not really a CVRDA friendly facility anymore.

Steve

[Pat]

Probably worth checking whether it's covered or can be covered by your house insurance as it doesn't need third party cover and when it's away as another item that's covered when away just like a laptop or camera.
Don't think of it as a boat but as the contents of your home - a project in progress - and talk to them on those terms.
Having thought of it I'm going to phone LV tomorrow about our laid up Merlins before I renew with Bishop Skinner.

[kfz]

Bit more of a catch up with the latest progress.

Read deck repaired, filled and sanded. Old centre section routed out and a new bit fitted.


Khoya


and as if by magic.....


Quite pleased with this bit of work on the rear deck. Should have the hang of this by the time im finished.





Kev

[solentgal]

Hi Kev, good to see the pics, looks like you're really getting on well.
I hope to do a similar rebuild on my latest addition, Heron 3221, as she needs major attention too. I may need to rebuild the CB case, or at least let a piece in......and I'll probably need some good solid hardwood for at least one of my projects fairly soon. We have a good timber merchant nearby (Goodwillies,), so sourcing it should be ok, I hope......but I have no idea what to expect in the way of cost. Do you mind me asking how much a piece like that costs please?
On the subject of materials, does anyone know how readily available good quality (red, not keen on the chinese paler/softer wood) 3mm marine ply is? I'm looking to the future, hoping to design and build from scratch in 3mm. I bought a couple of sheets of 4mm and 6mm the other day, but I don't think they stock 3mm here. Any thoughts anyone?

[Max McCarthy]

I know 2mm is what they build modern international moths out of (if they are not carbon or fibreglass) and reinforce with styrofoam, which creates a strong hull. But 3mm should be more hard wearing and last longer then the 2mm. I know you can order some online, but the delivery is quite expensive I think. What are you planning on building? Or is it a complete home design and build. I would love to do that someday, it sounds fantastic! Good luck with the project.

[roger]

Hi Sammi,

One of the cvrda fav companies is Robbins of Bristol. Very helpful and seem to deliver to a fairly wide area.