Painting grp hulls
Guys,
I am in the process or prepping my Vanguard Finn for paint. Topsides have previously been painted, but now back to bare gel/grp and undersides are virgin gelcoat.
What would you recommend for the ultimate finish, single or two pack? and how should the wetted area be left, shiny or the old satin effect to prevent surface tension as in the old days of 'Smoothy' and 'Graphspeed'?
Finally whose product wuold you reccommend?
I am in the process or prepping my Vanguard Finn for paint. Topsides have previously been painted, but now back to bare gel/grp and undersides are virgin gelcoat.
What would you recommend for the ultimate finish, single or two pack? and how should the wetted area be left, shiny or the old satin effect to prevent surface tension as in the old days of 'Smoothy' and 'Graphspeed'?
Finally whose product wuold you reccommend?
GBR74 ex custodian of
GBR384 Mickey Finnale (Taylor,wood)
GBR455 Rubber Duck (Taylor, grp)
FD GBR350 Supercalifragalisticexpialidocious
GBR384 Mickey Finnale (Taylor,wood)
GBR455 Rubber Duck (Taylor, grp)
FD GBR350 Supercalifragalisticexpialidocious
For the ultimate finish, certainly 2 pack, sprayed. Everything else, dispite what I may have wound Alan up with in the past, is only used if cost/ease of use matters. International make a good 2 pack, but there may well be better. There have been threads in the past about car spray shops that may well be worth looking back at.
I always sand back and polish, and I think most would agree sanding with fine paper (anything from 600 to 1200 grit, depending on the person) is quick. Polish causes more debate, and may be all in the mind...
I always sand back and polish, and I think most would agree sanding with fine paper (anything from 600 to 1200 grit, depending on the person) is quick. Polish causes more debate, and may be all in the mind...
Rupert
I used International 2 pack on my Contender earlier this year. I would advise using a 2 pack undercoat as well to get the best finish, otherwise several top coats are required to get a good gloss. Roller are also recommended but they need to be expensive ones otherwise they break up. Finishing with light brush strokes is difficult but a good idea. I've used Blake's 2 pack in the past and I think they may be slightly easier to use than International.
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash
salut a la france
quick observation - agree 2 pack however have used in cellar in midst of cold winter at lower than 15deg c but have thinned mix by 5 - 10% without problem - also used expensive (by french standards) rollers which tended to fall apart - think its the organics in mix which attacks glue of roller! solution was to use a new roller per side - this worked well on a hull 11.5 ft x 4.5ft - gave it 3 coats on a clear epoxy base.
tony s
quick observation - agree 2 pack however have used in cellar in midst of cold winter at lower than 15deg c but have thinned mix by 5 - 10% without problem - also used expensive (by french standards) rollers which tended to fall apart - think its the organics in mix which attacks glue of roller! solution was to use a new roller per side - this worked well on a hull 11.5 ft x 4.5ft - gave it 3 coats on a clear epoxy base.
tony s
Mirror, GP14(x2), Seadog, Blandford Nymph, and Pegasus awaiting complete rebuild!
ps
forgpt to add 2 pack by stoppani - italian - picked up in deal kent for £1 / 750 tin excellent product / result etc also new rollers used at all times / rollers by Crown Fayre or Johnstones or kalon - by the 10 pack
forgpt to add 2 pack by stoppani - italian - picked up in deal kent for £1 / 750 tin excellent product / result etc also new rollers used at all times / rollers by Crown Fayre or Johnstones or kalon - by the 10 pack
Mirror, GP14(x2), Seadog, Blandford Nymph, and Pegasus awaiting complete rebuild!
For good finish on GRP I don't really think that you have any other real option except 2-pack.
However it is a pig to apply....in any conditions.
But, yes easier if you can raise temp to at least 15deg.
thinning does also help.....
as does using small foam rollers.....
but have to say, that although I have done it, using thinned paint and rollers.....it is still not an easy bit of painting by any stretch of the imagination.
cheers
eib
However it is a pig to apply....in any conditions.
But, yes easier if you can raise temp to at least 15deg.
thinning does also help.....
as does using small foam rollers.....
but have to say, that although I have done it, using thinned paint and rollers.....it is still not an easy bit of painting by any stretch of the imagination.
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
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Don't forget, with 2 packs, urethane or epoxy you can use accelerator in cold conditions. Also if you are going to the expense of buying that stuff, you do not want to cheap out on rollers and brushes. If you are using the small foam rollers, chuck them as soon as they double in size. Also use a good quality varnish brush for tipping out and only use it for urethane once.
Also, if you are doing this in a heated garage wear an extremely good chemical mask, or better yet an air supplied mask.
B.E.
Also, if you are doing this in a heated garage wear an extremely good chemical mask, or better yet an air supplied mask.
B.E.
could also try standing tins in warm water for a time to raise temperature - mix and slight temp elevation aids flattening/smoothing process - a trick used in renovation of veteran cars using enamel paints - slight temp elevation would also assist a little with cure time but is marginal as when applied the heat in paint is soon dissipated
salut a la france
tony s
salut a la france
tony s
Mirror, GP14(x2), Seadog, Blandford Nymph, and Pegasus awaiting complete rebuild!