Hi folks.
Is it possible to obtain hardwood screwhead cover plugs and if so where please ?
Thanks
Ken
hardwood screwhead cover plugs
Re: hardwood screwhead cover plugs
Just need a plug cutter of a corresponding size.
Use the plug cutter to on a piece of suitable timber and make your own.
Loads of plug cutter / dowel maker sets on eBay for less than a tenner.
Use the plug cutter to on a piece of suitable timber and make your own.
Loads of plug cutter / dowel maker sets on eBay for less than a tenner.
Re: hardwood screwhead cover plugs
WHAT ?!
Make my own ? Don't IKEA or someone make bits for GPs ?
More seriously ... thanks for "instant reply". Plugs, apparently, not quite so instant. I'm not surprised but thought I'd check with the experts as, although I like tinkering with wood, I like sailing better
Ken
Make my own ? Don't IKEA or someone make bits for GPs ?
More seriously ... thanks for "instant reply". Plugs, apparently, not quite so instant. I'm not surprised but thought I'd check with the experts as, although I like tinkering with wood, I like sailing better
Ken
Re: hardwood screwhead cover plugs
Some chandlers do sell teak plugs of various sizes, but making your is quick, cheap, uses up small scraps and you can match colour and grain.
By the time you've driven to a chandlers or searched the web you could make hundreds!!
By the time you've driven to a chandlers or searched the web you could make hundreds!!
Re: hardwood screwhead cover plugs
Robbins have them in a range of sizes/woods....
but only really of any good if you want to have them in contrasting colour. For them to match you need to make your own out of same wood as recommended here.
eib
but only really of any good if you want to have them in contrasting colour. For them to match you need to make your own out of same wood as recommended here.
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Re: hardwood screwhead cover plugs
OK . Thanks guys. Now I pays mi money and makes mi choice : Plugs or cutters.
Thanks also for not telling me how stupid I am for not web searching first to find theres loads of both shouting at me to buy them.
I'll try to ask more sensible Qs in future
Thanks also for not telling me how stupid I am for not web searching first to find theres loads of both shouting at me to buy them.
I'll try to ask more sensible Qs in future
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 3:42 am
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: hardwood screwhead cover plugs
If the plug cutter set has cutters for straight as well as tapered plugs, you will be very happy the first time you have to repair a really badly <expletive>ed up screw hole. As long as there is enough wood round the hole for strength (i.e.don't do this to thin ribs, stringers etc.) you can cut a long straight plug, drill out the damage to the plug diameter, and glue in the plug matching the grain, then when its set, trim the end flush and redrill the hole.
if its a blind hole, shape the plug end to approximate the drill's point angle and lightly groove the plug lengthways in a couple of places round its diameter to let trapped air and glue escape. For deep holes, you will need to stack several plugs in stages and drive the bottom plugs in with a dowel marked with the depth you expect the top of the plug to go to.
There are several possibilities for the glue to use, but it helps to pick one with a long open (working) time and that lubricates the plug as it is driven. If the fit is too tight, the joint will be starved of glue and the plug impossible to drive fully. For structural and underwater stuff I've generally use epoxy, but above water, I quite often use a submersible "wet grab" construction adhesive as its plenty strong enough due to the large joint area and far more convenient when you only need a few ml of glue.
if its a blind hole, shape the plug end to approximate the drill's point angle and lightly groove the plug lengthways in a couple of places round its diameter to let trapped air and glue escape. For deep holes, you will need to stack several plugs in stages and drive the bottom plugs in with a dowel marked with the depth you expect the top of the plug to go to.
There are several possibilities for the glue to use, but it helps to pick one with a long open (working) time and that lubricates the plug as it is driven. If the fit is too tight, the joint will be starved of glue and the plug impossible to drive fully. For structural and underwater stuff I've generally use epoxy, but above water, I quite often use a submersible "wet grab" construction adhesive as its plenty strong enough due to the large joint area and far more convenient when you only need a few ml of glue.
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (FORUM REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.