Brass mast step plate?

[Jimmylovescake]

That had been a plan, although Ian highlighted some problems in doing this which left me thinking if a solid block; although having the wife remind me on what I've spent so far has left me thinking that I made need to resort to the original bit of alloy, or the thinnest piece of tufnol I can get away with mounted on a thinner sepele step.
I happy with working with the wood, although I have no experience of working with tufnol so another learning opportunity;-)

[chris]

I think someone else mentioned that sapele isn't the best wood for this, oak or perhaps iroko would be harder and more durable.

[JimC]

My own preference might be for high density nylon aka chopping board, with a thin piece of tufnol on top to make it look less glaringly out of place.

[Jimmylovescake]

I can't do that Jim...I'very spent too many hours to cut corners so I want to use bits that go with the as the tics of the boat.
It's taken nearly 10 months to source all the brass bits I need to replace the stainless and plastic bits of deck hardware (bar a couple that have proven impossible).
The thought of a bit of plastic instead of the hardwood that was there originally goes against my approach so far.

It will be either as it was when I got it, or the bit of tufnol. I'love be having another read though, at some point, to clarify my options, but I have unfortunately ruled out the 2 5mm tufnol unless something turns up on eBay.

[Ian Malcolm]

A chunk of greenheart + a shim washer on the mast foot cut from a P.E.T bottle to reduce abrasion would be nearly as good as a solid Tufnol block.

You *could* alternatively face a wood that hard and durable with the 1/8" Tufnol you have been offered. Don't let it in, go edge to edge with glue and a row of fairly closely spaced small countersunk screws a bit in from each edge but *NOT* under the actual mast foot. My objection to it was the wood compressing under it and it bowing, with resulting water penetration, but if the wood is about as hard as the Tufnol, and classed as extremely durable that objection goes away. Predrill and pre-thread all holes and lubricate all screws with B.L.O. Use best quality slotted A4 stainless self-tappers.

Greenheart is used for marine/river piling where maximum durability is needed so you may be able to get a salvaged chunk or offcut. Beware of splinters and dust as it is toxic.

You wouldn't need to even try to keep varnish on it, just keep it well oiled.