varnishing new ply.
varnishing new ply.
Hi all,
I have gone through the search routine, but I cannot find specific answer.
I want to know, what is first coat for new ply that is going to be varnished ?
a link to a relevant topic would great.
I have gone through the search routine, but I cannot find specific answer.
I want to know, what is first coat for new ply that is going to be varnished ?
a link to a relevant topic would great.
Re: varnishing new ply.
I've always used heavily thinned varnish...
[added later] Oh yes, two pot varnish is another game of soldiers entirely. Follow suppliers instructions religiously.
[added later] Oh yes, two pot varnish is another game of soldiers entirely. Follow suppliers instructions religiously.
Last edited by JimC on Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: varnishing new ply.
I have used various methods. G4 UCP and various other products but tend to agree with Jim now and use thinned one pack varnish as first coat or two.
You will get lots of preferred options so you will have to make your own choice in the end.
You will get lots of preferred options so you will have to make your own choice in the end.
Hornet 191 Shoestring,
Hornet 595 Demon awaiting restoration
Hornet 610 Final Fling
Hornet 353
Hornet 595 Demon awaiting restoration
Hornet 610 Final Fling
Hornet 353
Re: varnishing new ply.
I use a first coat that is probably 20% varnish 80% thinned...or something roughly like that, just enough varnish to soak in and darken the surface, next coat a little less thinner etc etc. I don't bother to rub down until the varnish has started to 'build' otherwise you just go back to bare wood.
Plain varnish, nothing fancy.
Everyone will have an opinion largely driven by varying doses of patience, perfection and the 'life's too short' syndrome.
One thing I have started to do is actually write down how many coats I have done. This helps with the 'oh come on, surely that's enough' moment that will surely follow.
Plain varnish, nothing fancy.
Everyone will have an opinion largely driven by varying doses of patience, perfection and the 'life's too short' syndrome.
One thing I have started to do is actually write down how many coats I have done. This helps with the 'oh come on, surely that's enough' moment that will surely follow.
Tideway 206
11+
Sold the 'Something bigger and plastic', it never got used.
11+
Sold the 'Something bigger and plastic', it never got used.
Re: varnishing new ply.
Thanks for replies.
I know very little about Varnish, what thinners do you use ?
I know very little about Varnish, what thinners do you use ?
Re: varnishing new ply.
the appropriate thinner for the varnish. It will say on the can. Best to go with the recommendation.I know very little about Varnish, what thinners do you use ?
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Re: varnishing new ply.
Sorry, though didn't answer the question.
Personally, I would put on something thin and hard as a primer before you finish off with a good varnish.
I used to always use Blakes Woodseal and swore by it, but you can't get than any more.
Would now consider thinnned G4 Dampseal, Eposeal (SP3000?), the new replacement of UCP from international or even a highly thinned epoxy.
For me, the reason for this is that when you next take off the varnish, the primer/sealer tends to stay on the wood and holds it together, so you loose less wood when sanding back or stripping the varnish.
Then I would finish with a good single pack varnish. Epiphanes is still in my opinion the best, but there are plenty of other good uns. I often use Jotun Spontan as a middle coat after the primer and then end up with a coat or two of epiphanes to finish with.
But as said, there will be as many methods as there are CVRDA builders
eib
Personally, I would put on something thin and hard as a primer before you finish off with a good varnish.
I used to always use Blakes Woodseal and swore by it, but you can't get than any more.
Would now consider thinnned G4 Dampseal, Eposeal (SP3000?), the new replacement of UCP from international or even a highly thinned epoxy.
For me, the reason for this is that when you next take off the varnish, the primer/sealer tends to stay on the wood and holds it together, so you loose less wood when sanding back or stripping the varnish.
Then I would finish with a good single pack varnish. Epiphanes is still in my opinion the best, but there are plenty of other good uns. I often use Jotun Spontan as a middle coat after the primer and then end up with a coat or two of epiphanes to finish with.
But as said, there will be as many methods as there are CVRDA builders
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Re: varnishing new ply.
Thanks Ed.
The Ply is for the wings on Minisprint, may not work, but I can always go back to plank.
The Ply is for the wings on Minisprint, may not work, but I can always go back to plank.
Re: varnishing new ply.
What type of varnish are you using, Rob?
If using a simple yacht varnish, rather than the polyurethane, just add a dollop of white spirit to the 1st coat (approx 1/3 to 1/2) and slap it on. For a single pack poly, do similar but read the back of the can carefullt yo find out what thinners.
However, if you use G4, you could get it coated with 3 coats in a day, then come back to it a couple of days later, sand it back and bung on a final coat. You won't get the "depth" of varnish, but you have a hard clear waterproof coating.
If using a simple yacht varnish, rather than the polyurethane, just add a dollop of white spirit to the 1st coat (approx 1/3 to 1/2) and slap it on. For a single pack poly, do similar but read the back of the can carefullt yo find out what thinners.
However, if you use G4, you could get it coated with 3 coats in a day, then come back to it a couple of days later, sand it back and bung on a final coat. You won't get the "depth" of varnish, but you have a hard clear waterproof coating.
Rupert
Re: varnishing new ply.
Hi Rupert,
I have still to get any varnish.
The ply is textured on one side, this will be the side you sit on, the other side is smooth, with writing on it, the main job varnish will be doing is sealing cut edges and holes cut through to reduce weight, the 2 finishes in themselves are waterproof, but would look better with a coat of varnish.
I will post photos when assembled.
I have still to get any varnish.
The ply is textured on one side, this will be the side you sit on, the other side is smooth, with writing on it, the main job varnish will be doing is sealing cut edges and holes cut through to reduce weight, the 2 finishes in themselves are waterproof, but would look better with a coat of varnish.
I will post photos when assembled.
Re: varnishing new ply.
Hi Rob,
In that case i would use something like G4 as Rupert suggested, You can get it from garden centres as pond sealer but make sure you get the clear stuff. It goes off very quickly with any moisture so pour some from the can and close the can straight away.
In that case i would use something like G4 as Rupert suggested, You can get it from garden centres as pond sealer but make sure you get the clear stuff. It goes off very quickly with any moisture so pour some from the can and close the can straight away.
Hornet 191 Shoestring,
Hornet 595 Demon awaiting restoration
Hornet 610 Final Fling
Hornet 353
Hornet 595 Demon awaiting restoration
Hornet 610 Final Fling
Hornet 353