Thinking about what to paint Unskol with. The hull is part old gel coat with scratches and stuff, part new wood coated (=primed really) with SP eposeal, part bare glass/epoxy. Should be two pot and preferably as few coats and as little sanding as possible, and quite fancy the idea of using a highbuild primer to try and even out some of the many lumps and bumps. Any thoughts?
Seems bizarre to me that all the undercoats/primers seem to be only in white these days. I suppose that's the way to get consistent topcoat colour but even so... I'd much rather have everything dark for scratches. Maybe I had better just get some carbon black...
Paint Systems...
Re: Paint Systems...
I love this stuff:
http://www.paintmarine.co.uk/jotun-peng ... r-46-p.asp
but also available on ebay.
It is hard, easy to work and very high-build. You can get it in white/grey/red.
It is also unbelievably cheap.
These are not the suppliers I used to use, so I can't vouch for them, but the primer is brill.
FWIW, I used the white primer as a topcoat on my IC and just wet'n'dryed it back and then polished it for a really easy to fix hard finish.
Worthwhile buying a can of the correct diluent as you will need to thin it a bit for use.
I also rate their topcoats and think their 'trad' varnish: Ravilak is a wonderful old fashioned deeply colourd varnish, like an easy-to-apply Tonkinoil. May not be right for most modern racing boats, but wonderful for the more traditional boats.
eib
ps I know I am teaching eggs to suck grandma......but only from my own experience. Wash, then sand, then wash then sand, then wash that eposeal before putting the primer on it
http://www.paintmarine.co.uk/jotun-peng ... r-46-p.asp
but also available on ebay.
It is hard, easy to work and very high-build. You can get it in white/grey/red.
It is also unbelievably cheap.
These are not the suppliers I used to use, so I can't vouch for them, but the primer is brill.
FWIW, I used the white primer as a topcoat on my IC and just wet'n'dryed it back and then polished it for a really easy to fix hard finish.
Worthwhile buying a can of the correct diluent as you will need to thin it a bit for use.
I also rate their topcoats and think their 'trad' varnish: Ravilak is a wonderful old fashioned deeply colourd varnish, like an easy-to-apply Tonkinoil. May not be right for most modern racing boats, but wonderful for the more traditional boats.
eib
ps I know I am teaching eggs to suck grandma......but only from my own experience. Wash, then sand, then wash then sand, then wash that eposeal before putting the primer on it
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Re: Paint Systems...
I talked to a Gurit techie about eposeal, and he made a special point about overcoating it: if I understood him correctly apparently it will release a tiny amount of solvent for some time after nominal cure which is compatible with two pot systems but hostile to one pot.Ed wrote:.....but only from my own experience. Wash, then sand, then wash then sand, then wash that eposeal before putting the primer on it :-)
Re: Paint Systems...
Well, that is very interesting and certainly supports what I have found with using it.
I like the stuff.....but have found it very fussy with overcoating. I think it is highly likely that most of the times I had problems (memory does not totally serve), I would of been using the SP as a primer and then going on to coat with a trad varnish.....so my experience would bear out what he said.
Having said that, as long as I have washed it/sanded it and left it for a while, it has been OK and to be honest, not that much different to using G4, with which I have had rather similar issues!
cheers
eib
I like the stuff.....but have found it very fussy with overcoating. I think it is highly likely that most of the times I had problems (memory does not totally serve), I would of been using the SP as a primer and then going on to coat with a trad varnish.....so my experience would bear out what he said.
Having said that, as long as I have washed it/sanded it and left it for a while, it has been OK and to be honest, not that much different to using G4, with which I have had rather similar issues!
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Re: Paint Systems...
SP eposeal is nice and thin and penetrates, but being solvent-based will continue to 'out-gas' for a while.
Neat epoxy ( my fave is SP320) will be really thin if you can do the heatgun thing very carefully with the other hand, and will set without any solvent outgassing.
I use Durepox white primer as a finish on foils - hibuild and smoothable and hard, similar to the Jotun primer.
Jotun Hardtop 2 pack gloss is good too.
SP do carbon dust - good for bearings, or adding to filler to hide those gaps in clear finish carbon jobs.
Neat epoxy ( my fave is SP320) will be really thin if you can do the heatgun thing very carefully with the other hand, and will set without any solvent outgassing.
I use Durepox white primer as a finish on foils - hibuild and smoothable and hard, similar to the Jotun primer.
Jotun Hardtop 2 pack gloss is good too.
SP do carbon dust - good for bearings, or adding to filler to hide those gaps in clear finish carbon jobs.