Swift restoration

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PeterV
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Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Sat Apr 09, 2016 11:12 am

As promised, the first in what might be a long list of questions!

Swift No. 5 is in quite remarkable condition and has never been painted. However every brass pin and screw I can see is considerably corroded and I assume the boat was built using a Cascamite type glue. I expected large square hatches in the fore decks like my old Swift but there's none, only small 4" hatches in the stern decks. So my question is this, do you think I should remove the decks to access the inside of the hulls, paint inside (I was thinking of using Danboline) and replace any internal screws on the beams or bridge deck? If I do should I try and re-use the decks or would I expect to replace?

What I don't want to do is repair the hull veneers, revarnish and then have the boat fall apart on the first sail.
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

Michael4
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by Michael4 » Sat Apr 09, 2016 1:24 pm

Have you thought of getting your hands on a cheap endoscope? Maybe something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/28136850 ... 0&ff14=122

I've seen one used on drains and was quite impressed. If you could reassure yourself that things weren't too bad you'd save an awful lot of work...maybe!
Tideway 206
11+
Something bigger and plastic

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Sat Apr 09, 2016 5:47 pm

I've taken some photos and what I can see doesn't look too bad, but of course I can only see as far as the daggerboard cases. I suppose a gynaecologist would be able to paint the whole inside through the aft hatches.

http://s280.photobucket.com/user/PeterV ... t=3&page=1
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

chris
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by chris » Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:31 am

I very carefully took the decks off Gently and every brass screw was completely corroded - very slow work to remove but I was keen to put the original decks back. I did replace all the structural screws holding the various frames, plugging holes, repairing splits etc too. At least with the decks removed you can redo and be confident high stress areas like the shroud anchor points are 100% sounds. Reduces stress on the humans aboard when sailing! but adds hugely to the time spent on the restoration.

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Sun Apr 10, 2016 12:14 pm

Thank Chris. The more I think about it the more I think this is the only way to go, even if I cannot repair the decks. The photos I took inside the hulls show corroded screws holding the aft beam on, and I can't get to any of them
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

chris
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by chris » Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:28 pm

They also recon that aerolite in dighies lasts about than forty years and cascamite much less. ( don't know how old your Swift is)

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Sun Apr 10, 2016 3:55 pm

It's number 5 so almost certainly 1959. I'm not sure if anyone else has restored a cold moulded dinghy so old, every other moulded dinghy seems to be a Fairey. Hull construction is 2 veneers of mahogany, inside layer from gunwale to gunwale, outside fore and aft. There's one longitudinal split on the port side hull aft which needs to be repaired and a small hole near the bow. I'm thinking of using the agba veneers I've got for the repairs as the mahogany colour is very light.

I'm also seriously considering using Eposeal 300 on the hulls in order to give some strength to the veneers, but I know many aren't keen on using epoxies. I was intending to only use it on one side so that the wood can still breathe.
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

JimC
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by JimC » Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:49 pm

Just remember eposeal is bare wood only. It really slaughters old paint IME.

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Sun Apr 10, 2016 8:04 pm

Jim, does that mean it's a none starter for old wood? The boat's been varnished and I was going to remove the old varnish first.
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

JimC
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by JimC » Sun Apr 10, 2016 9:29 pm

PeterV wrote:Jim, does that mean it's a none starter for old wood? The boat's been varnished and I was going to remove the old varnish first.
No, you just need to get the old varnish off. IME it will lift anything that's left.

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:38 pm

One week in and I haven't hit any horrors yet! I've repaired the hull, it was cracked all the way through for about 5" and I've used 3 layers of Agba to fix it. I've been taking screws out and so far I've taken out about 100 with only about 5 breaking off, so that's a lot better than I'd thought. I've also started scraping off the varnish which isn't coming off easily so I guess it's probably 2 pack. There's a lot more screws and scraping to go yet on the undersides but I'm pretty pleased with the progress so far.
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

sam mason
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by sam mason » Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:55 pm

I find that eposeal finds every fault in wood boats and ultimately turns them grey. I think its something to do with the solvents. For the Albacores, and everything else that comes here, I use Timberseal PS from Reactive Resins. It knocks Eposeal into a cocked hat imho and you can fillet to it, Only drawback is it takes for ever to cure 48hr average this week so you don't need to be in a hurry
Sam

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:41 pm

Thanks Sam, I'll look into Timberseal. I was interested in Eposeal because of its penetration, does Timberseal penetrate well?
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

sam mason
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by sam mason » Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:12 am

Timberseal is a LOT thicker than Eposeal and the penetration is achieved due to the time taken to cure. The huge plus is that it is practically solvent free and therefore supports glue rather than attacking it. The thickness allows a certain amount of filling of slightly open joints and grain. It also goes harder than Eposeal adding additional stiffness to substructure. I have found Timberseal to be totally waterproof and durable. Any timber saturation can only go as far as the glue line in any event
As I said in my previous post it takes time to cure and the first time you use it this can be a bit disconcerting. On older timber I use it every time both in visible areas and those you cant see. The ultimate accolade !!
Sam

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PeterV
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Re: Swift restoration

Post by PeterV » Sat Apr 16, 2016 11:04 am

I might use it then. I'm a way off but drying time isn't a problem, I wanted to scape and sand the bottom before priming it then I'll turn it over and start on the top so there will be plenty of time for it to dry before I turn it over again to varnish.
PeterV
Finn K197 & GBR564
Warsash

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