Enterprise rear end

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Lorry
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Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:43 am
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Post by Lorry »

Hello everyone,
Is this the Classic & Vintage Racing Dinghy Woodwork Association?

Just got an old Ent home (think it is 6013) and started stripping and poking to see how bad, needless to say I found more rot than expected.

The transom panel, lower transom frame (sorry I don't know the name for it) and the aft three inches of all hull panels and stringers? (fore to aft frames)are shot.

The rest of the boat is remarkably sound and has obviously been well cared for over the years.

Any advice on which order to replace/scarf new wood to these parts would be very welcome?
Many thanks
davidh
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Post by davidh »

why not just make the boat 3" shorter...............

Hohohohoho

D
David H
Lorry
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Post by Lorry »

Haha - very good. Can't tell you what the mrs suggested!
Seriously though, should I be worried about the boat loosing its shape if tackled the wrong way? Should I fit temporary frames or something?
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Ed
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Post by Ed »

mmmmm

much easier to say if you can post some photos....

but I don't think you will need to fit a frame or anything. Maybe just a bit of 2x2 across aft edge of decking to be sure.

Rupert is better on this kind of fix than me, I expect....but anyway...I would;

remove transom as complete as possible and use to cut a template.

clean up and remove all rotten wood

make new transom and offer up....hopefully there will be enough boat to make at least a temporary (if not permanent) fit.

See what panels or parts of panels need to be replaced and cut to fit.

Personally I wouldn't bother too much about doing perfect scarf joints, (do em as well as possible) but if one side is painted, I would sand/grind through a veneer on both sides of join and add some epoxy and tape.

hope this helps. its not really too bad a job to do....at least not on an ent...harder on a merlin or other clinker boat.

cheers

eib
Ed Bremner
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Lorry
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Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:43 am
Location: United Kingdom

Post by Lorry »

Thanks Ed. Sounds like I'm thinking along the right lines. Perhaps some support won't hurt during the process.

I'll try and put up some pics soon - it may help with getting a positive ID on her too - I can't find any numbers or marks anywhere on the hull.

No worries with my scarf joints - I'll try to keep them neat on the inside and thank the lord for modern epoxies!

Thanks again.
Lorry
Lorry
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Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:43 am
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Post by Lorry »

I have made a blog and posted some pics if anyone wants a look.

http://myoldenterprise.blogspot.com/

Any help dating her or identifying the mast and boom would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Lorry
chris
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Post by chris »

I've replaced a couple of transoms and found that a tempory batten as Ed suggests, screwed or even cramped acoss is all that's usually required. Though I have also supported the stern of the hull from the ceiling with ratchet straps( or blocks on the floor) just so that it doesn't sag and you end up with the hog/keel/rocker misshapen. And maybe fix another support batten up from the keel knee to the batten so you have the three vital points fixed.
make the replacement exactly identical to the transom you take out rather than draw round the hole left on the hull. Some of the bevels are awkward as you mark it out - just takes thought and care.
Lorry
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Post by Lorry »

Thanks for this Chris. I think I have a plan now and it's basically as you suggest.
I'm thinking sit it right-way up on a temp frame made of odds and sods, a 2x3 brace (left-over roof truss) across the aft decks, a post under truss infront of keel knee, a batten to top transom frame and then a ratchet strap through the rotten hull panels right around the keel and pull it all tight (using the strap I won't have to screw into the inside).

I have a fine piece of oak I've been saving for years lined up to replace the frame (not sure what the original is) and will take great care shaping it.

You guys are real gems for this help and I thank you for it.
Lorry
JimC
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Post by JimC »

Oak is an unusual choice for an Enterprise. Its going to be somewhat out of place with the rest of the boat, not to mention heavy. For sure there are going to be other projects in your life where a fine piece of oak might find a better home. One of the light mahoganies like Sapele might be a more conventional choice, maybe even just plywood.
chris
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Post by chris »

I would suggest 2x1 for a batten. you only need to stop the sides spreading. 2x3 might be heavy enough to distort the hull shape when you remove the transom.
Ps don't crank the ratchet up too tight either.
You could also make a hardboard template of the back end before you do anything to check your work and final shape is true.
Rupert
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Post by Rupert »

I'd agree with Jim about the choice of wood. The bit of wood that supports the transom will certainly be made from some sort of Mahogany like wood, and the lighter ones are easier to work with, even if weight isn't a concern.
The transom will be made from 8mm marine ply. It is certainly worth drawing round the transom before removing it. Draw the transom flap holes in too! A piece of 2x1 clamped to the deck will hold the shape. I very much doubt an Ent will loose shape other than that, as the Hog and keel aren't exactly weak.
I've just replaced the bottom bit of an Ent transom and triangles of wood the shape of the water that was left in the bottom of the boat when she was left tipped up...The keel and the hog had, surprisingly, survived almost unscathed.
Good luck!
Rupert
riverlovejoy
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Post by riverlovejoy »

Hi all, just going to stick my oar in on this one as I had E228 when I was 14 and had to do a similar job.

It's fine to replace all the aft planking and you also have to stop it happenning again. There are loads of ents with this problem that have been wrecked by the little pool of water that collects where the lower panel joins the transom. So don't forget to make epoxy fillets that will let the water drain out completely through the transom drains when she is tipped up ashore.

Finally, put in some transom flaps as if they are left open ashore they will provide that much needed ventilation the lack of which did the damage in the first place.

Have fun, I did.

Regards

Riv.
Riv
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