oxalic acid help please
I know this subject has been on the forum before but i have forgotton all the info!!:oops:
Doe's anyone know any source to obtain oxalic acid . I have been to several chemists but they can't sell me any as its a poison . I assured them i wasn't trying to kill my wife but this didn't seem to matter much, still no!! ( fancy being bleached to death , wot a way to go !! )
Anyway when we lived in wales i could buy it in a ready made form called Liberon wood bleacher although a bit expensive, but in Cornwall i can't seem to even find that. Maybe Ed has a source being in this neck of the woods.
Doe's anyone know any source to obtain oxalic acid . I have been to several chemists but they can't sell me any as its a poison . I assured them i wasn't trying to kill my wife but this didn't seem to matter much, still no!! ( fancy being bleached to death , wot a way to go !! )
Anyway when we lived in wales i could buy it in a ready made form called Liberon wood bleacher although a bit expensive, but in Cornwall i can't seem to even find that. Maybe Ed has a source being in this neck of the woods.
DJSpencer-Smith
Fraid I don't know.....
when I used to buy chemicals for weird and wonderful photographic techniques, I used to have to sign a 'poisons' book. I might well even have some oxalic acid, but that was long ago in London.
I don't like using wood bleaches much at all and as a rule prefer a black patch to a grey one which seems to always be what you are left with.
I have used Rustins 2 part bleach, but I suspect this works using strong base such as Hydrogen Peroxide rather than an acid.....But again not to much great sucsess.
Have also used Netrol wood cleaner, which does brighten some wood, but does not really move black stains much.
If I was looking for Liberon Products, I would normally look in Robbins Timber in Bristol.
there is also another range of wood polishes and cleaners called something like MG or M&G......will have to look downstairs. Neil put me onto these and again I have had some limited sucsess. These are available in quite a few places in southwest, including Exeter and Oakhampton, but sure they are also further west.
I will find name when I next go into the workshop (most probably 2008 at current rate).
cheers
eib
when I used to buy chemicals for weird and wonderful photographic techniques, I used to have to sign a 'poisons' book. I might well even have some oxalic acid, but that was long ago in London.
I don't like using wood bleaches much at all and as a rule prefer a black patch to a grey one which seems to always be what you are left with.
I have used Rustins 2 part bleach, but I suspect this works using strong base such as Hydrogen Peroxide rather than an acid.....But again not to much great sucsess.
Have also used Netrol wood cleaner, which does brighten some wood, but does not really move black stains much.
If I was looking for Liberon Products, I would normally look in Robbins Timber in Bristol.
there is also another range of wood polishes and cleaners called something like MG or M&G......will have to look downstairs. Neil put me onto these and again I have had some limited sucsess. These are available in quite a few places in southwest, including Exeter and Oakhampton, but sure they are also further west.
I will find name when I next go into the workshop (most probably 2008 at current rate).
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
There has been so much talk about using bleach.....well Oxalic acid.
That I think someone should write a master class on the subject (with lots of photos) and we can have it up on line in the 'hints'n'tips' section.
Just need to do it quick before the Forum gets blocked with posts about why we shouldn't go near Oxalic acid without a head-to-toe condom on.
cheers
eib
That I think someone should write a master class on the subject (with lots of photos) and we can have it up on line in the 'hints'n'tips' section.
Just need to do it quick before the Forum gets blocked with posts about why we shouldn't go near Oxalic acid without a head-to-toe condom on.
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
Condoms.... well certainly with my lack of success with the stuff I feel a bit of a p***k!!!! Seriously though maybe I didn't have the right concentration/time etc to get it to work and I'm always worried that it's eating away at the wood if you don't wash it all off and it starts to work again if it gets damp.
well if you are worried about it starting to work again, it may be worthwhile washing it down with some simple Alkali, which will neutralise the acid. But personally I think that just washing in water should do it.
In fact I think a jolly good wash with lots of water and a good scrub with some soap nearly always seems to help. I never used to wash down unvarnished boats as I was worried about the boat getting too damp. But recently I have just worked on principle that it would need a while to dry....and then given it a good wash. I have been amazed by how much difference and good this does. in fact I often wonder if the improvement comes mainly from the 'netrol' or just from the scrubbing. I suspect sometimes it is just the good wash that does the trick.
cheers
eib
In fact I think a jolly good wash with lots of water and a good scrub with some soap nearly always seems to help. I never used to wash down unvarnished boats as I was worried about the boat getting too damp. But recently I have just worked on principle that it would need a while to dry....and then given it a good wash. I have been amazed by how much difference and good this does. in fact I often wonder if the improvement comes mainly from the 'netrol' or just from the scrubbing. I suspect sometimes it is just the good wash that does the trick.
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
This stuff is or was a popular poison in days gone by and saw off many a spouse or ex!! You need to know a chemist/pharmacist who can vouch for your good character. I was refused supply by high street pharmacies and one insisted I identify myself even though they were not going to supply me. I eventually found a pharmacist for whom I had done some work a few years prior and he was satisfied with my credentials and purpose of purchase. He spplied a kilo of crystals.
Good luck
Good luck
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I bought mine in France - was on the Bricolage (DIY) shelves among the wood treatments and was fairly inexpensive. Are the French less H&S sensitive?
Worked well on my GP though the French instructions were not that easy to follow - the correct strength and plenty of time seemed to work. I found it worked better on solid wood than ply decking. Maybe I should import some next time I am over - customs explanations might be interesting!
Worked well on my GP though the French instructions were not that easy to follow - the correct strength and plenty of time seemed to work. I found it worked better on solid wood than ply decking. Maybe I should import some next time I am over - customs explanations might be interesting!
Maybe I've just been lucky, but for the last few years I've found a good blast with a hot air gun seems to clear most of the black, and careful application (ie using a small watercolour brush to hit the line of the grain) of Domestos at various dilutions does the rest. Seeing that Mike Golding needs new mast, I'd better use the Ecover equivalent next time.
John
John
Good information and supplier - http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/show_produc ... QgodLkHYcQ
Although it is an acid it is not in the same class as Nitric etc. Washing off with plenty of water is enough for our purposes but make sure you avoid inhaling the vapour. Gloves, face mask and protective eyewear should be used when mixing and applying.
Although it is an acid it is not in the same class as Nitric etc. Washing off with plenty of water is enough for our purposes but make sure you avoid inhaling the vapour. Gloves, face mask and protective eyewear should be used when mixing and applying.
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