Bending wood
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by last man</i>
<br />Hi all after seeing all the boats at Bowmoor I feel the need to do up Katomi how can I bend hard wood along the outside edge of an ent. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Star at one end and finish at the other - in my experience gunwhale thickness wood doesn't need steaming or anything, just screws and glue.
<br />Hi all after seeing all the boats at Bowmoor I feel the need to do up Katomi how can I bend hard wood along the outside edge of an ent. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Star at one end and finish at the other - in my experience gunwhale thickness wood doesn't need steaming or anything, just screws and glue.
I did an Ent last winter, and Jim is right. I would say, however, to get it all fitting right before adding the glue...The forces required to bend it round the quite full bow are lots, especially once it is covered in glue,which makes it slip, and one hand is holding the screwdriver! I also found it easier to start by the shroud plate and work fore and aft, but I suspect it is just a matter of preference. Expect to swear alot!
Rupert
Yup, I am with you just clamp one end and go for it.
I do sometimes loosly clamp wood in place and leave for a week or so just so it starts to bend into shape first.
the only times that I have come to grief is when there was a bit of really wild grain around the biggest bend and this has caused a crack/break right across gunwhale 'Ugh'. Should of seen it first really....so check...especially with woods with particular wild grain like Khaya. Mind you even in this case, I still just carried on with a little extra 'guck'and lots and lots of clamps and no-one would ever notice.
Oh....while I am thinking of 'orrible muck-ups I have done......I have also had problems with attaching the gunwhale due to excess clamp pressures removing 'all' epoxy from join leaving a practically dry and week joint.
This can easily happen when your are trying to hold down a 14ft slimy python of mahogany. Again, a little more care and preparation would of prevented my sorrows....I should of just spent a little more time sanding/cleaning both surfaces before I glued them up.
Hope this helps
cheers
eib
I do sometimes loosly clamp wood in place and leave for a week or so just so it starts to bend into shape first.
the only times that I have come to grief is when there was a bit of really wild grain around the biggest bend and this has caused a crack/break right across gunwhale 'Ugh'. Should of seen it first really....so check...especially with woods with particular wild grain like Khaya. Mind you even in this case, I still just carried on with a little extra 'guck'and lots and lots of clamps and no-one would ever notice.
Oh....while I am thinking of 'orrible muck-ups I have done......I have also had problems with attaching the gunwhale due to excess clamp pressures removing 'all' epoxy from join leaving a practically dry and week joint.
This can easily happen when your are trying to hold down a 14ft slimy python of mahogany. Again, a little more care and preparation would of prevented my sorrows....I should of just spent a little more time sanding/cleaning both surfaces before I glued them up.
Hope this helps
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
ah yes.....was going to mention....
personally I prefer 'F' clamps.....
easier to apply singly handed....and this is a job where you need alll the hands you have.
And they are cheaper...some places sell the chinese ones for about £15,00 for ten, which has got to be pretty good value.
cheers
eib
personally I prefer 'F' clamps.....
easier to apply singly handed....and this is a job where you need alll the hands you have.
And they are cheaper...some places sell the chinese ones for about £15,00 for ten, which has got to be pretty good value.
cheers
eib
Ed Bremner
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
CVRDA
Jollyboat J3
Firefly F2942
IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
MR 638 - Please come and take it away
Phelps Scull
Bathurst Whiff - looking for someone to love it
hi all
also possible to use cheaper plastic spring loaded clamp -i can only describe as being akin to small coal tongs - these can be picked up for about £1 each around market tool stalls - used 'em successfully in the seadog restoration
tony s
also possible to use cheaper plastic spring loaded clamp -i can only describe as being akin to small coal tongs - these can be picked up for about £1 each around market tool stalls - used 'em successfully in the seadog restoration
tony s
Mirror, GP14(x2), Seadog, Blandford Nymph, and Pegasus awaiting complete rebuild!
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- Posts: 27
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- Location: United Kingdom
I'm getting on quite well with the quick release clamps, the ones that are like a cross between a sealant gun and a clamp. I'm thinking these might be good for gluing my mast. Although If you want to get something clamped really tightly G or F Clamps all the way.
John Lee
GP2289
Minisail 2666
"A boat is a large hole in the water into which you pour money"
GP2289
Minisail 2666
"A boat is a large hole in the water into which you pour money"
If you are screwing then you can do it without any cramps or pre-bending.
1. Support the strip on a trestle and start by fixing a couple of screws at the bow.
2. move the trrestle nearer the hull and then use a webbing strap or rope to winch in the strip to close to the hull and carry on drill, screw from bow to stern. quite easy and minimun need for cramps etc.
1. Support the strip on a trestle and start by fixing a couple of screws at the bow.
2. move the trrestle nearer the hull and then use a webbing strap or rope to winch in the strip to close to the hull and carry on drill, screw from bow to stern. quite easy and minimun need for cramps etc.