Removing anti slip on Contender

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Pike
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 2:08 pm
Location: Bedfordshire

Re: Removing anti slip on Contender

Post by Pike »

Pike is a nickname I've had for about 20 years after someone I worked with thought I looked like
Private Pike in Dad's Army and it has just stuck , real name Andy :)

Just had a look at the forestay mounting and all looks well thankfully.
It has round drain holes but the raised bracing for the centreboard extends
all the way to the back :?

IYRU number on plaque says 1216.

I will be sailing or swimming around it at Stewartby SC in Bedfordshire, I'm expecting
a steep learning curve as my current boat is a Dart 15 cat which it probably a fair bit
more stable and has a lot less string to pull, but I'm really looking fwd to the challenge.

Andy
fcdbm
Posts: 36
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:51 pm

Re: Removing anti slip on Contender

Post by fcdbm »

Reading Neil's off topic post.

Angle grinding or sanding artex is very dangerous as Artex contains asbestos.
If it is safe so long as you leave it alone and don't disturb it. It is one of those products that removing it is more risky than leaving it in stable condition.

If you are planning work on artex (or other textured coatings) check the HSE Guidance:

http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/essentials/index.htm#a2

Likewise grinding or sanding fibreglass also needs to be carefully done to control the dust.

Although I was once told by a surgeon that glass fibres are very much larger than asbestos fibres and therefore does not penetrate in the molecular make up of lung tissue in the carcinogenic way that asbestos does.
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Ed
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Re: Removing anti slip on Contender

Post by Ed »

I was thinking about this thread today as I cleaned up the front of an old AlfaSud bonnet.

Was using one of these pads:

Image

Remarkably tough, I think it might well do well with Rondar Anti-slip.....but again, go gently.

eib
Ed Bremner
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chrismartin3583
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:03 pm

Re: Removing anti slip on Contender

Post by chrismartin3583 »

To clarify Luke's post:

1st port of call - DA sander and 80 or 40 grit. That will shift most non slip surfaces and you have as much control as you can expect with what is quite a coarse abrasive. Start with 80 grit, if that doesn't cut it try 40.

if this doesn't work it's angle grider with flappy pad and a well-worn 60 grit linishing pad. This is a tool as Ed says that does not take prisoners! You need a steady hand and let the pad do the work without pressing down.

You really should never need to use heat on a GRP boat, and i would definitely not recommend it unless there is absolutely no alternative. The demise of decent chemical strippers (Themselves iffy on a grp boat) means we are likely to see more of these cases. If you do use heat, use the lowest possible setting and beware older heat guns which are invariably much hotter than ones you get today. I think if i was doing another boat like that i'd try a hairdryer first.

Wear a mask while doing this - i don't know what the long term effects of glass fibre is on my lungs, but i'd prefer to not find out!!
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