miracle restoration
Re: miracle restoration
fit a round inspection cover to the bulkhead, to help it breathe. I am going to epoxy coat the floor areas of the tanks I can get at in my mirror to stop any pooled water soaking in, before it can be sponged out or evaporate when the hatches are left off.
Re: miracle restoration
If you can get it back to clean sound wood epoxy coat. If at all contaminated with previous coatings then paint.
Graham T
Osprey 1340, Osprey 1245, Osprey 55, Miracle 1358, Laser heap, ancient Mirror kit half assembled, Project Miracle in need of decks........
Kielder Water Sailing Club
Osprey 1340, Osprey 1245, Osprey 55, Miracle 1358, Laser heap, ancient Mirror kit half assembled, Project Miracle in need of decks........
Kielder Water Sailing Club
Re: miracle restoration
i painted the storage area today behind the bow tank, it was painted already but grubby on the floor and epoxy under it, so just gave that a good helping of paint , finish it tomorrow if the rain stays away, the bow tank i will reinforce with glass and epoxy around the joins , then maybe paint it out and fit inspection hatch in the deck, as in the bow bulk head is difficult access if your not in the boat , thanks for your input chaps.Graham T wrote:If you can get it back to clean sound wood epoxy coat. If at all contaminated with previous coatings then paint.
Re: miracle restoration
The Class rules prohibit hatches on the deck. They should be on vertical bulkheads.
It is easier to fit as the surface is flat rather than the slightly curved deck.
If I was at your stage with my restoration, I would bring the bulkhead aft to the cut away bulkhead. Gives more buoyancy and much easier to get to the bungs/hatch.
See Dave Butler's new boat photo attached.
It is easier to fit as the surface is flat rather than the slightly curved deck.
If I was at your stage with my restoration, I would bring the bulkhead aft to the cut away bulkhead. Gives more buoyancy and much easier to get to the bungs/hatch.
See Dave Butler's new boat photo attached.
- Attachments
-
- Butler boat 02.jpg
- (17.04 KiB) Not downloaded yet
Re: miracle restoration
fcdbm wrote:The Class rules prohibit hatches on the deck. They should be on vertical bulkheads.
It is easier to fit as the surface is flat rather than the slightly curved deck.
If I was at your stage with my restoration, I would bring the bulkhead aft to the cut away bulkhead. Gives more buoyancy and much easier to get to the bungs/hatch.
See Dave Butler's new boat photo attached.
I must admit I wouldn't - One of the great things about the Miracle is its ability to be used for so many things - getting rid of the stowage compartment would mean sailing with picnics, water pistols, bailers, paddles etc in the cockpit with you. The boat doesn't need any more buoyancy - it needs stowage spaces! The new Butler boats concentrate on racing - a bit like the Winder Mirrors at the expense of family sailing.
Graham T
Osprey 1340, Osprey 1245, Osprey 55, Miracle 1358, Laser heap, ancient Mirror kit half assembled, Project Miracle in need of decks........
Kielder Water Sailing Club
Osprey 1340, Osprey 1245, Osprey 55, Miracle 1358, Laser heap, ancient Mirror kit half assembled, Project Miracle in need of decks........
Kielder Water Sailing Club
Re: miracle restoration
i agree , i wouldn't either , i may put ply doors/hatches on the stowage area though.Graham T wrote:fcdbm wrote:The Class rules prohibit hatches on the deck. They should be on vertical bulkheads.
It is easier to fit as the surface is flat rather than the slightly curved deck.
If I was at your stage with my restoration, I would bring the bulkhead aft to the cut away bulkhead. Gives more buoyancy and much easier to get to the bungs/hatch.
See Dave Butler's new boat photo attached.
I must admit I wouldn't - One of the great things about the Miracle is its ability to be used for so many things - getting rid of the stowage compartment would mean sailing with picnics, water pistols, bailers, paddles etc in the cockpit with you. The boat doesn't need any more buoyancy - it needs stowage spaces! The new Butler boats concentrate on racing - a bit like the Winder Mirrors at the expense of family sailing.
Re: miracle restoration
Fair comment about storage.
Does your Miracle have the kingpost support set infront of the mast?
If not this is a modification worth adding as it stiffens this area and stops the foredeck joint opening up when the jib is tensioned.
Also while you have the foredeck off, lift the bow up and run a 'puddle' of resin uphill of the bung holes. This reduces the dribble of water getting trapped in the bow tank and storage area. Resin doesnt need to be epoxy, cheap polyester does the the job.
Look forward to your next update.
Does your Miracle have the kingpost support set infront of the mast?
If not this is a modification worth adding as it stiffens this area and stops the foredeck joint opening up when the jib is tensioned.
Also while you have the foredeck off, lift the bow up and run a 'puddle' of resin uphill of the bung holes. This reduces the dribble of water getting trapped in the bow tank and storage area. Resin doesnt need to be epoxy, cheap polyester does the the job.
Look forward to your next update.
Re: miracle restoration
While we are looking at stiffening the Miracle.
Does your boat have the centreboard stiffening knees at the front of the CB case.
See attached photo.
Stops the crew booting the case and cracking it.
Almost too ashamed to post this example of my workmanship, was having a very boggy day that day.....
Does your boat have the centreboard stiffening knees at the front of the CB case.
See attached photo.
Stops the crew booting the case and cracking it.
Almost too ashamed to post this example of my workmanship, was having a very boggy day that day.....
- Attachments
-
- CB case stiffeners.jpg
- (16.03 KiB) Not downloaded yet
Re: miracle restoration
Regarding the kingpost, no she hasnt got that so maybe a job for next weekend, good shoutfcdbm wrote:Fair comment about storage.
Does your Miracle have the kingpost support set infront of the mast?
If not this is a modification worth adding as it stiffens this area and stops the foredeck joint opening up when the jib is tensioned.
Also while you have the foredeck off, lift the bow up and run a 'puddle' of resin uphill of the bung holes. This reduces the dribble of water getting trapped in the bow tank and storage area. Resin doesnt need to be epoxy, cheap polyester does the the job.
Look forward to your next update.
she has a puddle of epoxy already in the bow as you described, been out today and sounded the hull again and found a slight soft spot , water under the paint , luckily caught it just in time before it poked itself through the hull, pleased i found it in time, letting it dry out then epoxy and glass , excellent result.
the way im going ill just be sailing one giant epoxy glass patch
Re: miracle restoration rudder
rudder now varnished, a few new screws and center bolt
Re: miracle restoration
have been thinking about the bow tank and painting or coating it with something , paint, varnish, epoxy etc etc, and i'm beginning to think this is the wrong thing to do, ok at first it will look great and you would think , ok that's sealed nicely , but, over time your coating may crack,and you may not notice it being inside the bow,even if you fit an inspection hatch, then moisture and water build up occurs behind the coating and slowly eats away at the hull, i think i'm going to leave her bare plywood in the bow, at least the ply can dry out naturally fast and without a coating of any kind, no water can get trapped .
i noticed that this is what had happened on part of the hull exterior and on a couple of places inside the boat.
obvious point to some of you seasoned folks out there , but i am still learning the basics.
i noticed that this is what had happened on part of the hull exterior and on a couple of places inside the boat.
obvious point to some of you seasoned folks out there , but i am still learning the basics.
Re: miracle restoration
Hmmmm, not sealing in the tank to let it breath, seems very counter intuitive!!
I would paint it and seal it.
The thinking behind this:
If moisture gets in the ply it won't dry very quickly, especially in the winter and then you will find the outer paint bubbling and lifting.
Paint fails mostly as a result of sunshine and trapped moisture.
In the tanks the sun don't shine so the paint will last.
If it does crack a bit, there will be much less water getting into the wood than if you had no finish on it.
Resist the temptation to rush the job, one more weekend spent painting will be worth it.
I would paint it and seal it.
The thinking behind this:
If moisture gets in the ply it won't dry very quickly, especially in the winter and then you will find the outer paint bubbling and lifting.
Paint fails mostly as a result of sunshine and trapped moisture.
In the tanks the sun don't shine so the paint will last.
If it does crack a bit, there will be much less water getting into the wood than if you had no finish on it.
Resist the temptation to rush the job, one more weekend spent painting will be worth it.
Re: miracle restoration
Yep, inside a tank is a great breeding ground for rot and so on, its warm and humid and so on, and very rarely really dries out. Water will migrate to the outside, and damage the veneers and lift the paint. The nice thing about tank insides is that the paint does last for decades without any light on it. Also the unpainted wood will provide a reservoir of soaked in water, so the tank insides will be much more humid for far longer.fcdbm wrote:If moisture gets in the ply it won't dry very quickly, especially in the winter and then you will find the outer paint bubbling and lifting..
So, for whatever my opinion is worth, definitely paint it. Better rot in a few cracks after 10 years than over the entire surface in three!
Re: miracle restoration
both excellent points, i shall ponder over a coffeeJimC wrote:Yep, inside a tank is a great breeding ground for rot and so on, its warm and humid and so on, and very rarely really dries out. Water will migrate to the outside, and damage the veneers and lift the paint. The nice thing about tank insides is that the paint does last for decades without any light on it. Also the unpainted wood will provide a reservoir of soaked in water, so the tank insides will be much more humid for far longer.fcdbm wrote:If moisture gets in the ply it won't dry very quickly, especially in the winter and then you will find the outer paint bubbling and lifting..
So, for whatever my opinion is worth, definitely paint it. Better rot in a few cracks after 10 years than over the entire surface in three!
Re: miracle restoration
pondered ,i shall paint the bow tank , primer then dulux weathershield, ill enjoy every minute doing it, summer is coming and i'm working on a plywood boat, excellent