Kicker.
Kicker.
I want to simplify Kicker on my Sprint, at the moment to get sufficient travel I have a 2 part kicker, the control lines are sent to both sides.
images if possible.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... DI-YH-n1PS
images if possible.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP ... DI-YH-n1PS
Re: Kicker.
Can't see the link, but can roughly remember. What I'd suggest is a 4:1 block system, where the tail is then run to either one cascade for 8:1 or two for 16:1. The MS mast is pretty bendy, so 8:1 would be enough, I'd have thought. The final cascade runs out to the side deck cleats. If you lack travel, move the take off point on the boom aft a little.
Rupert
Re: Kicker.
current kicker is 16to1, this is plenty, could probably halve this, however I don't want to start heaving control lines, with 16to1 you can adjust with minimum effort, would like to get rid of primary kicker.
Every time I doubled up power, travel was affected.
Every time I doubled up power, travel was affected.
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Re: Kicker.
Yeah, that's the physics working... it happens in any pulley system.... The only type of kicker immune to it is the old winch drum style....trebor wrote:Every time I doubled up power, travel was affected.
Matt
Int Moth K2992
Int Moth K2992
Re: Kicker.
Well, not strictly true. You can get a 16:1 by using 16 blocks top and bottom. Think the friction might be an issue, and the cost!
Rupert
Re: Kicker.
I started off with 4to1 block system, then 1 cascade, still felt like it needed more power, fitted another cascade, giving 16to1.
Re: Kicker.
In that case, to get the travel, you need to lengthen the distance between top and bottom. The only way to do that is to move the boom fitting aft. Or are you already doubling up on the centre main fittings already?
You could also take a look at the 1970s era lever kicker, too. Easy to get 8:1 on that, then doubled by the twinned control line. Cheap, as the lever is easy to make, but a pain to get working well. Modern rope would help on getting the lengths right, I guess.
You could also take a look at the 1970s era lever kicker, too. Easy to get 8:1 on that, then doubled by the twinned control line. Cheap, as the lever is easy to make, but a pain to get working well. Modern rope would help on getting the lengths right, I guess.
Rupert
Re: Kicker.
It is attached to mainsheet block bracket, this could be moved aft about 3".
Never seen lever, is it similar to Highfield lever ?
Never seen lever, is it similar to Highfield lever ?
Re: Kicker.
The lever is basically a flat triangle, hypotenuse upwards, with the other 2 sides very uneven. If you Google dinghy kicking strap lever you'll see some.
Rupert
Re: Kicker.
This will replicate what my primary kicker does but appears more complex and a lot of faffage.
The way present system works is,
set the secondary system halfway through it's range,
then set what you think boom needs to be for wind conditions using primary kicker,
you can then micro adjust using secondary kicker.
The way present system works is,
set the secondary system halfway through it's range,
then set what you think boom needs to be for wind conditions using primary kicker,
you can then micro adjust using secondary kicker.
Re: Kicker.
If you have marks for different conditions on the course tune, then it should work fine. Still seems a little overkill for the MS spaghetti mast!
Rupert
Re: Kicker.
If you cascade a 3:1 with a 4:1 you'll get 12:1 with rather better throw than your current setup.
I did use a coarse/fine on my PlusPlus, but the drawback is repeatability. I used one of those triple blocks with a cleat, and had the centre block and cleat as the end of the coarse, and used the fine outer ones as part of the 4:1. The coarse control was really only needed to give enough slack to get the clew on easily.
The triangular plate was simply to separate the parts of the purchase so everything wasn't rubbing on everything else.
It was 3:1 -> 2:1 with coarse adjustment -> 4:1 for 24:1.
I did use a coarse/fine on my PlusPlus, but the drawback is repeatability. I used one of those triple blocks with a cleat, and had the centre block and cleat as the end of the coarse, and used the fine outer ones as part of the 4:1. The coarse control was really only needed to give enough slack to get the clew on easily.
The triangular plate was simply to separate the parts of the purchase so everything wasn't rubbing on everything else.
It was 3:1 -> 2:1 with coarse adjustment -> 4:1 for 24:1.
Re: Kicker.
Jim,
The primary kicker also serves to enable you to release/attach kicker to boom.
Rupert,
power is more than adequate and as you state will work with less, advantage with power is ease of use, I can adjust kicker under any conditions with ease.
The primary kicker also serves to enable you to release/attach kicker to boom.
Rupert,
power is more than adequate and as you state will work with less, advantage with power is ease of use, I can adjust kicker under any conditions with ease.