Varnishes - oh no, not again!!

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Trevor C
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Post by Trevor C » Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:41 am

Looking a lot better - not prefect but better. Thanks.
You can see progress on
Uffa Fox Jolly Boat - J9
Mirror - 34359
Hornet - K140

Please see for my charity ride to Paris in May

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Post by Pat » Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:48 am

Be aware that the Dulux etc house paints you buy in B&Q are not the same as the Dulux etc in the trade places, but are far poorer quality, even for the same brand!
I can't even use one of those cheap bristle things they sell as "paintbrushes" in front of Sandy as he'll then produce a proper trade brush with tapered long hair and proceed to do the job professionally and the difference is really noticeable!
(Half Cut and What a Lark Removals Ltd)

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Post by stu » Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:23 am

Whats wrong with a paintbrush from Bristle, it's a great place to live and our paintbrushes are just as good as a paintbrush from any where else.:D[:p]
The only canoe sailor in MY village too !

8) OK K1958
8) Mirror 34459

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Garry R
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Post by Garry R » Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:04 am

Stu - that's a cheesy joke known only to those who live or lived in the Brissle areal (although I live in Aberdeen I have experienced the tropics when doing my PhD in Long Ashton). P'raps the cheese is Cheddar?

alan williams
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Post by alan williams » Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:05 am

Hi Guys
I had my championship winning Hornet sprayed professionally with Perfection two can. What a finish and very easy to produce dump boat collect boat when finished. They even sanded the boat down for me using air powered sanders full sheet jobs. Total time for job 2 days which included baking in oven. Cost was a suprise by the time I costed my own time and the materials it was a bargin. The top class finish lasted until I sold the boat three years later and as you all know I'm heavy handed with boats.
Cheers Al

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Post by Ed » Wed Mar 16, 2005 2:59 pm

You might well be right about the Dulux paint....although I have to say that the dulux machine and cans they use to mix the dulux colours in Clifton Paints (since we are talking Brizzle here) looks uncannily like the one in the local B&Q. But wherever you get it....there is no doubt that there is a big difference between the good quality and the naff quality.

My point originally was that house trade paint used to be pretty bad stuff, but things have moved on and that now, the best of it is pretty damn good....but note I said the 'best' of it. There is no doubt that some of it is still pretty crappy. But I think that if you buy the top quality and most expensive exterior gloss paint from as good as the older marine paints.

This is most probably what you call the 'trade' paint....its not no-drip, its not one-coat, its not pink but dries white, it needs a proper undercoat. It's not really a consumer paint. It's just high quality good paint that needs to be properly applied. It is a 'bit' cheaper than marine paint....but not a great deal. The big advantage to me is the ability to be able to choose from a wider selection of colours than those offered by the identical ranges of Blakes and International.

Now I would also be the first to admit that the marine paint business has seen that trade paints have been catching up with their technology and have had to put some thought into producing new ranges of paints that offer more advanced performance and I think that is why we have seen some new and 'very strong' paints from Blakes and Interational such as the new Brightside paints from international. This keeps them ahead again and I am sure that this kind of paint is better....but now you are talking about a hike in price (and the same old boring colours).

Really I feel that for my boats, I prefer an easy to apply, easy to patch and easy to remove paint. I am not sure that the advantages of a rock-hard surface outweigh the problems when you try and take it all off for a new coat....which is going to happen sooner or later. If the boat is 30 years old...then I want it to last another 30 years.

Sorry getting slightly off the point.

As far as application goes, again I am afraid I hardly stick to tradition. The Roll'n'Tip method has revolutionised painting and varnishing for me. I have never heard of anyone who has tried it go back to using a brush afterwards. Even died in the wool varnishing experts have admitted to me that it is both faster and easier to produce a high quality result. The big advantage is that you just don't need to be an expert to get good results.

If you havn' try it! If it seem expensive due to the 'use and chuck' philosophy, then look around for somewhere to buy rollers and foam brushes in bulk as price quickly falls.


Ed Bremner

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IC GBR314 ex S51 - 1970 Slurp
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Post by Rupert » Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:15 am

I've just used an idea from one of the archived varnish threads...suger in the varnish. I did a section of each of saskia's side decks for grip, and last night washed the sugar off with hot water and a washing up sponge. Seems to have come out well, though we have yet to sit on it!

Brian E. Evans
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Post by Brian E. Evans » Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:31 am

with regard to Ed's post about car paint, as a person who does extensive refinishing on boats and aeroplanes I wish to make a comment about problems common to both.
Most Automotive/car paints are formulated to work on metal, they are too brittle to do a good job on wood or aircraft fabric.
However in the 1980's car makers started using flexible bumpers.

The paint manufacturers had to adapt their paints to work on this new surface. The result was the flexomeric additive (flex agent.)this material is added into the paint as it is mixed for use making the paint more flexible and tougher unfortunatly it also makes it softer. However this makes the car paint suitable for use on a wooden hull . So look at your paint jobber for paint for flexible bumpers.
With regard to the sugar in the varnish trick, I wish I had known that one last year.
I sanded and repainted one of our sailing club boats ( I have 16 of them to look after) using nonskid in the top coat.
The next day in a race I sanded the bottom out of a pair of trousers on the new surface. the rest of the members thought this was a huge joke, I was not amused.
I sanded the surface with 220 grit on an orbital sander then applied two coats of varnish over the nonskid areas this left enough of a tooth to work as non skid without the sandpaper effect.
Brian Evans.

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