Hi Everyone, I'm after some advice on replacing the transom on a late 70's wooden Enterprise.
I'm relatively happy getting the old one off, making a template and cutting a new one. But I'm new to woodworking that needs to be waterproof once finished.
I'm going to use marine ply but I believe the main difference between marine ply and regular is the glue and minimal voids in the laminates and that the wood itself isn't any more water resistant than standard.
Once the replacement transom is ready to go in, what should I be be doing to ensure the transom itself and the joins are waterproof for as long as possible?
I will eventually be painting the transom
Thanks for your help
Wooden Enterprise Transom Replacement
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- Posts: 222
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:28 pm
Re: Wooden Enterprise Transom Replacement
A late 70s Enterprise may have been built using epoxy resins although that would depend on the builder. I would suggest using SP106 epoxy for all the joints because with the right mix of fillers it will fill any small gaps while retaining strength. The SP106 can be used to coat and seal all the repair too, sand it back and varnish over to protect it from UV.
Is the transom in need of replacement due to the usual been left on a dinghy park with water inside? If so there may be some work to replace part of the framing as well as the ply.
There is a huge difference in quality of plywood, both marine and WBP exterior grade. Some exterior can be better than marine. The supplier of choice is Robbins at Bristol http://www.robbins.co.uk/ They do sell some part sheets which is useful for smaller jobs.
It would be a shame to go to all that trouble and then hide it under paint. It looks far better to varnish the transom and only paint the edges of the ply showing, just enough to cover the new joints.
Is the transom in need of replacement due to the usual been left on a dinghy park with water inside? If so there may be some work to replace part of the framing as well as the ply.
There is a huge difference in quality of plywood, both marine and WBP exterior grade. Some exterior can be better than marine. The supplier of choice is Robbins at Bristol http://www.robbins.co.uk/ They do sell some part sheets which is useful for smaller jobs.
It would be a shame to go to all that trouble and then hide it under paint. It looks far better to varnish the transom and only paint the edges of the ply showing, just enough to cover the new joints.
Re: Wooden Enterprise Transom Replacement
Hi,
I replaced the transom in my old national 12. It is solid mahogany but the same method would be suitable. All held together with a thickened mix of epoxy. Pictures are still on my lonely blog of the rebuild, see January 2009
http://n760.blogspot.co.uk/2009_01_01_archive.html
Hope this helps, it wasn't too difficult in the end.
JC
I replaced the transom in my old national 12. It is solid mahogany but the same method would be suitable. All held together with a thickened mix of epoxy. Pictures are still on my lonely blog of the rebuild, see January 2009
http://n760.blogspot.co.uk/2009_01_01_archive.html
Hope this helps, it wasn't too difficult in the end.
JC
Re: Wooden Enterprise Transom Replacement
Hi JC and Bornagainmothie,
Excellent advice ref the epoxie and plywood. I've checked out the SP106 and found a source already.
Thanks for the link, the National looks good.
Excellent advice ref the epoxie and plywood. I've checked out the SP106 and found a source already.
Thanks for the link, the National looks good.
Re: Wooden Enterprise Transom Replacement
Hi,
The owner of our local boatyard is very helpful. I can buy epoxy in large or small quants, stainless and copper fixings, timber etc. I'm sure others are just as helpful, just ask.
I had lots of advice on the importance of getting mixing ratios right, pumps, scales, syringes. They all appear to work. A good supply of micro fibres makes for a thicker mix if you need to fill gaps like I do.
The 12 was a great fun project, now time to sort out my 'new' 14....
JC
The owner of our local boatyard is very helpful. I can buy epoxy in large or small quants, stainless and copper fixings, timber etc. I'm sure others are just as helpful, just ask.
I had lots of advice on the importance of getting mixing ratios right, pumps, scales, syringes. They all appear to work. A good supply of micro fibres makes for a thicker mix if you need to fill gaps like I do.
The 12 was a great fun project, now time to sort out my 'new' 14....
JC