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Jollyboat New Build Blog

Keep in touch with Steve Moore’s incredible new boat.


To the best of my knowledge, this is the first Jollyboat to be built in the last 35 years in the UK.

It looks like a fantastic effort and we are all itching to see her on the water.

What number does she get? Now there is a good question and maybe one that Andrew Richardson – keeper of the records can answer….but not I!


1 stevem { 03.14.08 at 7:05 am }

Hi Guys

I like the website lots of great pictures of some very nice boats. They’ll be a great help as my boat build progresses, I have a good set of plans but its a great help to have a look at some other boats to see how things have been done. My plans are copies of the original plans that I bought from the Uffa Fox website. They show the rigging and deck hardware used in 1955 so it would be a great help to see what harewware is being used today.

It is really good to see that you have been watching my progress. Finnishing the veneering was a big milestone it seemed to be taking forever. Still I have a marathon of sanding and fairing up to do yet and it’s good to know I’m not the only one out there beavering away.

Steve Moore.

2 andrew { 03.18.08 at 9:14 pm }

The latest boat I have a registration certificates for is J320 which joined in oct 1961 and now has double trapeze and fully battened main. The latest boat I can think of is J351 being restored in Sussex. Any advances ?

3 admin { 03.19.08 at 9:51 pm }

The latest Fairey Jollyboat that I know of in the UK is J365, that was part of the Thornhill Fairey Collection, then MDL collection and now part of National Small Boats Collection. He also had another Jollyboat with a large number 362 or 363, but I was never sure whether this was actually an old boat or just using some sails from J365.

I also know of J332 and J335 – both still in existence.

But this of course is for UK built Fairey Jollyboats.

I have heard mention of Tanzercraft Jollyboats made in the USA with numbers up into the 800s. I have no proof of these….or the accuracy of these numbers, but have heard of two reports of Jollyboats in the 800s……so there you go…..maybe someone can prove or disapprove the large numbers

4 stevem { 03.20.08 at 5:00 pm }

Hi chaps

It would be nice to have a proper sail number but I’m not sure if my boat will measure. I’ve worked closely to Uffa fox’s original plans but at the time I did not access to a large workshop so I did the lofting process in autocad which I had learned to use at college. The only place I have not gone with the plans is the width of the centre plate. I am going to use wooden plate not a metal one so I’ve changed the width to 1 1/8” which I got from the plans of the the Austratian boat that are on this website. I have used the profile dimensions for the plate from Uffa’s plans but the measurements are not detailed. SoI have had to take the dimensions using a set of dividers and a steel rule then multiplying by the inverse of the scale to draw the plate and its case in cad.

I’m not too bothered if I don’t have a sail number I just wanted to build something beautifull that will still be sailing when I’m long gone. Now that I am sanding the hull I can see this gracefull beautifull shape appear which has come from my hands and I can appreciate what a great designer Uffa Fox was.

5 admin { 03.20.08 at 7:06 pm }

Don’t have the rules to hand, but I am pretty sure there is no problem with the width of the centre-board casing. Pretty much all Jollyboats have the wide case. Mine J3 does not, having the original thin case – but this is an immense pain and is more than likely to be changed very shortly to allow a thick wood case. I can only think of a handfull of boats with original thin case.

There is no doubt that the boat is much more pleasant to sail with a wooden board rather than a metal plate and I have always done my best to make sure I used a wooden board whenever possible. If you want to use a metal plate, you can always use (and should) a collar to hold the plate. If you want a metal plate, I am sure I can find one for you. I have scrapped them before now. They are relatively common, being used in Early Fairey Jollyboats, Alabcores, Swordfish and Falcons…..but as I said….why bother, the boat handles much better with a wooden board.

I don’t think the profile dimensions are that detailed…..as the rules are relatively loose around the dimensions stated.

I will post those shortly, but as long as the length/depth is correct and it fits in the box, I don’t think there will be any complaints.

To be honest the rules became pretty loose towards the end of the Jollyboat association’s life and there are other things that I would recommend, like not using Uffa’s spoon rudder.

I will put up rules shortly and we can discuss then,

I do hope that you do use a sail-number and that we try and work together to get something that makes sense. There were other Jollyboats without numbers (I have one), and it always seems a shame.

But we can talk about it closer to the time,



6 stevem { 03.21.08 at 8:25 pm }

Thanks ed

I think I’ll stick with the wooden plate, well got to now I’ve cut the centre plate case slot out. I was thinking of using the rudder from the Aussie boat plan unless you can suggest something. I was thinking of using the rig from the flying fifteen. The plans on the Uffa Fox site look the same and both have the same sail area.

I have to start thinking about rigging and deck hardware soon, could use a bit of advice on this.

7 stevem { 04.01.08 at 8:15 pm }

Hi Guys

Just a thought can anyone tell me what size trailer I will need to tow my boat about. 18′ seems to be a funny size, I’ve been watching the local free adds for a second hand one. They mainly seem to be for smaller dinghies or large speed boats. I was thinking of getting a trailer for a 16′ boat and lengthening it.

What do you think

Steve M.

8 admin { 04.01.08 at 11:03 pm }

Really you need a combi.

In my experience it does not need to be too long though. The support needs to come at about 9ft 6in to 10ft back from bow. This is pretty close to the balance point, but all the weight in a Jollyboat is at the front, so it wont tip up.

I have found that most Wayfarer combies work pretty well and they are 16.5ftish.

Shouldn’t be too hard.

Don’t get a boat trailer with rollers . There always too heavy. The bearings always rust. no fun at all. You need a trolley for getting boat in and out of water and then put that on the trailer.

If you are worried that there is too much ‘boat’ hanging out behind trolley/trailer left unsupported……and you don’t feel that you can trust me that it will be just fine, then you can always make a removable rear support that holds keel a couple of feet behind the trolley. I have seen this on some Fireballs. But never felt the need with the Jollyboat.

The only thing that is really important is that 99% of weight is taken on the keel and only very minimal weight is taken by the hull. I normally set up boat so it rests on either one side or other, with a 5mm gap on other side between hull and support. This means that when you strap the boat down it pulls the hull down to the support rather than trying to pull it into the hull.

This may well be not so much of a problem with a new epoxy-built hull though.

How is it going? I am on Trevose for Thursday-Saturday this week, so very close – ring if you are free.



9 stevem { 04.02.08 at 8:09 pm }

Hi Ed

Its going fine lots of sanding to do unfortunately its going to be by hand as well. I made a 2′ long board and it’s showing up the high spots nicely. I have three areas of course grain they were low spots in the veneer that got past me when I was choosing my top layer veneers my cockup. I’m hoping they’ll flat out as I fair up.
Thanks for the advice on the trailer I have some idea what I need now.

I’m on my days off Thursday & Friday working the weekend I don’t have your number can you drop me an email and I’ll give you a ring.

Cheers mate

Steve M.

10 stevem { 05.12.08 at 5:44 am }

Hi Folks

If you saw my last post on my boat blog you’ll see I have hit a bit of a snag Voids! They have only occured in three spots on the midship section right on the turn of the bilge where I am asking the veneers to bend in three directions at once through some quite tight curves.

I have broke through one but this side is quite close to fair so I have decided to keep sanding untill its fair and then carry out a repair. I still want to clear finish the boat but this leaves me with a problem a patch or to rout out a rabate for a full lenght spline.

I think the spline is the best as it would put all the original strenght back in. Its a bit of a setback but I am learning as I go so I’m going to make mistakes, I just won’t make this one on the next boat.

All the sanding with the long board is begining to pay off its starting to look really nice so it would be a shame to have to use filler and then paint over it.

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